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And Hot Links To Get You Going. 5 Minute Get Started Guide – Read this first to get the highpoints of using the editor 78 RPM Converter – Use your 45 RPM turntable to convert 78s Advanced Tab – Lots of really advanced Effects, Echo, Slow & Fast and more CD Ripper – Grab all the tracks from a CD to your hard drive Find It Print It Send It - Never Lose Files Again. Now you can create lists of your Music Files, Picture Files and Even Document Files. Print Them. List Them and Copy Them Optional Playlist Burner - Burn 1 file, 10 files or all your files to Audio CDs, Easy Direct CD Open (CDA) – Grab and edit a single right off CDs Live Recording – All the tricks. Edit even part of a word, do sound on sound and mix your voice with music MP3 Batch Converter – Convert MP3s to Waves and Waves to MP3 by the 10s, 100s or 1000s automatically MP3 Player – Need a small quick programmable MP3 player? Now you have it Playlist Manager – DAK's most important new tool over 10 audio tools included. Read this page. Schedule Timer – Record at a later time or day Set & Forget Length Timer – Don't baby sit your recordings. Use the set and forget timer to stop the recorder after your LP, cassette or Internet broadcast is finished Song Stalker – For Internet recording, it actually senses the silence between tracks and creates automatic track breaks, names and saves the tracks Track Tracker Program – DAK's most important tool. 1st time every time automated track separation. Names and numbers the tracks from your LPs, cassettes and Internet Recording Your Computer's Audio Properties Selector – Instant access to all your computer's sound properties from within The tools section Voice Over PRO Multitrack (Optional with .b burner Version)- Mix your voice over one or several tracks live in perfect sync. Then Mix the tracks. This is Multitrack recording. |
The Main Screen |
| It's easy. To record, just click the Red Button. To stop recording, click
the square Stop Button. And to Play back what you've recorded, click the Arrow
Play Button. What do you want to record? Open the Pull Down Box I've marked that says "What You Hear" in my picture and choose your source. See next picture below for the details. How Loud is your recording? This is very important when you are recording. THIS IS YOUR INPUT VOLUME CONTROL. Be sure to set it. I show you what to do below. That's basically what you need to know. Now I'll show you a few details and you can get started. But play with it all a little. Just make some 2 minute recordings to get the hang of it. Then you'll be all set. |
| Your Recording INPUT Choices. . . (Yours Will LOOK Different)  |
|
| OK, this is where you choose what you want to record. Think of it as a light
switch in your home. If you want to turn on the bedroom lights, you don't turn
on the living room lights. So here I'll show you what to choose. Why will yours be different? PLEASE READ THIS. The names in the pull down box you see above aren't the names I've chosen for the DAK Wave Editor. What happens is that our editor polls your sound card and creates the pull down list from what your sound card calls each of the inputs to your computer. Your computer has the same inputs as mine, it might just call it something different. Don't worry, yours has what you need. What You See Above is the Wave Editor Record Pull down box as it appears on 3 different computers at my desk. As you can see the names and the order they are in are all similar, but not identical. But like yours, they all do the same exact thing. Here are the inputs. 1. For Internet Recording- Choose What You Hear. Your Sound Card may call it Stereo Mix, Wave Out Mix, or Wave. But they are all the same. 2. For Recording LPs, Cassettes or anything connected to the blue jack in the back of your computer- Choose Analog Mix. Your computer may call it LINE IN, AUX or AUX 2. NOTE: Use the plug in back for this. It's usually blue and it's right next to where you plug in your speakers. If you have front mounted inputs, you can use them but they may have some other name. 3. Live Microphone Recording- Choose Microphone. Your Sound Card might call it Mic.  4.
Check this box or your selection won't take effect. Each time
you choose a new source, you need to check this box, arrow 1, so your sound
card will know what you want connected. Then you'll be all set. Sometimes it takes
a few seconds before you can check it, but unless you have an external USB sound
card, please remember to check it. 5. This
is the Play Control. You don't need to use this. It's more of a system volume
and it's best to just leave it in its default settings. As you see in arrow
1, unless you're using a USB adapter, leave it on Microsoft Sound Mapper which
is usually default. Yours may be different than this and that's fine. Just don't
change it for most times.That should do it. Now you have Your Inputs all set. Now you can record.
|
But How High Do You Set Your
levels? |
|
| This is probably the most common misconception in digital recording. Everyone
wants to record too high or hot. OK, I didn't record what's in the picture above. What you see here is the waveform from a commercial CD. Look at the recording level. Do you see in the wave windows that it's set to about 60% of the vertical height of the 2 Wave Windows? You can see a few lines pop up above and below. That's fine. But if you want your recordings to be at the same level as commercial CDs (and you do) set your levels to about 60% of the level like you see here. And, the wave windows, not the VU meters are how to set your levels in a wave editor. IMPORTANT NOTE: PROBLEMS? If when you record, the playback sounds muffled or distorted, it's only because you have recorded at too high a level and overloaded the recording. Just lower the input level slider above and your sound will be perfect. Your CDs will end up with the same volume as commercial CDs. NOTE: When you move the recording level control, the volume doesn't actually change till you release the control. Oh and did you notice that I've marked the Left and Right Channels? The top is always left and the bottom is your right channel. Here's a tip. Make a test recording. Happily, recording digitally isn't like using a tape. You can stop and start and clear and delete any time you want. So at first, just play a minute or so of whatever your source is to see if you are comfortable with the level and playback in the editor. After you make a recording, just click stop. Then click play and you'll hear what you've recorded instantly. Good News: Don't worry. All of this about input levels is really just for the first time you record. Most records and tapes are recorded at about the same level. You just need to know not to record too high and you're all set. And I wanted to be sure to get this idea across to you. Note: When the editor is recording it looks like the picture above this picture. But when you stop recording, you'll see the waveform form up just like this picture above. It may take a minute or so to happen depending on the speed of your computer and the length of the recording. But, you'll see a blue line move across the editor just below the wave windows and that's the progress bar and an hourglass will replace your cursor's arrow. Don't do anything with the editor while it's working.
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How Do I Save What I've Recorded? |
| OK, like a word processor, nothing is saved till you tell your computer to
save what you've written or in this case recorded. So when you Click Record, everything
is TEMPORALLY saved to your RAM and to a temp file you can't really get to again
on your hard disk. So here's how you save what you've recorded. Arrow 1. Click Record and Record whatever you want.  Arrow
2. Clicking Stop. Wait
until the hourglass (See Arrow A To Right) disappears or wait till the Blue Progress
Meter (See Arrow B To Right) stops moving and jerking across the screen under
the wave windows. You'll also see the Editor form the file across your screen.
This can be instant for a small file or even several minutes for a large (long
recording) depending on the speed of your computer and how much RAM you have.
IF you don't wait till the editor is finished forming your file, some or all of
the recording won't be saved.NOTE: Look two buttons to the left of the Record Button. That arrow is the Play Button. You might just Click it Now to hear what you've recorded. This way you can be sure you've gotten what you thought you recorded before you save it and go on. Just do this a few times while you learn. There's no reason to do this when you are actually saving your LPs and cassettes, but while you are leaning it's just an easy thing to check. Arrow 3. Then, go to File/Save As. (If you use save, you might overwrite something you want.) So usually use Save As. This will Launch a dialog box . |
The Save As Dialog Box |
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| This Box is actually part of your Windows System and really easy to use. Arrow 1. At the bottom type in your file name. Don't use special characters. Just use letters and numbers and call your musical masterpiece anything you like. Arrow 2. Here's the File Type Box. This lets you choose to save as Wave or MP3 files. Most of the time leave this as Wav because that's the industry standard uncompressed file for the best sound and easy editing and restoration and for CDs. Arrow 3. Now where do you want to save the file? This is important because we get so many calls from people who recorded something but can't find it. This is all about Windows, nothing to do with us or any other program you use. Just pick a spot that you'll remember and save it there. What do I do? Easy. For Windows XP, the 2nd Icon down the left takes you to your desktop where you can actually see what you've saved. If you save your first few files here, you won't lose them while you get used to recording. Then what I do is to create a folder on my desktop and save everything in there. It has the double advantage of keeping my tracks where I know where they are and not filling up my desktop with hundreds of music files. Arrow 4. Note. If you're not using Windows XP, open this pull down menu and select the Desktop from your choices. It's the same as clicking the Icon, just two steps instead of one. Arrow 5. OK just click save and you're all set. That's all there is to saving a file.
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How Do I Save Just A Selected Part Of A Track |
| This is one of the super powerful parts of the Editor. Regardless of whether
you recorded this track or just opened it, you can save any part you want as a
new file. Why would you want to save a part? Many reasons and you'll do it all the time. You might want to save a single track from a group of tracks when you aren't using the Track Tracker, or the opening or theme from some music or from one of the DAK Sound effects. What I'm saving here is just the theme "Hey Big Spender" from the track of the same name. I'm going to use just this part as one of my incoming email notification effects. It's easy. It's fast and you'll do lots of things like this too, once you're comfortable with the Editor. I've put in the words, which of course don't show in the program, but I wanted you to see how easy it is to spot the words you want to extract in the sound waves that you see. And you can just click Play to hear what you've selected, any time, no problem. Arrow 1. I'm showing you what I've selected. See the detail on how to select if you haven't looked at it yet. Arrow 2. Just choose File/Save Select As and only the part you've selected will be saved as a new file. The original file will remain untouched so you can always go back to it later. Arrow 3. You really don't use this here, but I wanted you to see that I was zoomed in to see the words and remember that you just grab the green handle you see here to move to anywhere else in the track or file to work on that part. That's it. Now you know how to select a Part of a file in addition to knowing how to select and save an entire file or track. |
How Do I Record Both Sides Of My Record Or Cassette
To A CD? |
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| We get this question a lot and it's really easy. You can usually get both
sides of your records and cassettes on a CD. But, don't think 20th century analog, think digital CDs and MP3s. There are no more sides. Every song, track, movement or chapter (if you're copying books) is a separate file in digital recording. After all you want programming and random access from your CDs. Plus if you don't have tracks there's no way to fast forward from one song to the next. Plus with digital you don't have to keep tracks you don't want, keep them in any order you don't like. It's a whole new freedom for you to enjoy your music. OK, so let's do it. So an average record or tape probably has 6 or 7 tracks per side and here's how to record both sides. Simply record side 1 as a single long track. Just as you learned to do in the How to Save in the pictures above. Remember to: Arrow 1. Record Arrow 2. Stop. Arrow 3. Go to File/Save As and Save it. That's the end of side One. Now BEFORE you start to record Side Two,  Arrow 4. Click The New Button Above. This clears Side One out of the Editor and you're ready to record Side Two. If you don't do that you'll record Side 2 over side 1 which is called sound on sound and you don't want to do that here. That's all there is to it. After you've recorded Sides One & Two, then you open the Track Tracker in the Tools Menu and get your Tracks separated. It's fast and easy and covered by another tutorial and a movie too. Naming Your Sides Special Note: When you name Side 2, don't use the same name that you used for side 1. In Windows, you can't have two files with the same name. So for side 2, just add a 2 to whatever name you are using. So if it's Myartist.wav for side one, use Myartist2.wav for side 2. All it takes is the one character to tell Windows that it's an entirely new file. Note 2: Everyone thinks they want to Record Side One, Pause and then Record Side two as One Long File. It doesn't Work that way in digital. Do it as I described above and you'll get all your recordings onto CD easily and quickly. Your CDs hold 72 minutes worth of your music and you can put as many tracks from as many records and cassettes as fit in 72 minutes onto a single CD.
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| How To Select. How To Use Edit, Operation And Filters Menus.  |
|
| Selecting is a basic Windows Function. It's the first step to using
many of the Editors powerful functions. So, spend a few minutes getting comfortable
making and using selections. You'll use selections to apply any of the filters, operations and editing powers. You'll use it to select a part of delete or to copy. And, you'll select a part of a file or track that you want to save and then by going to File/Save Select as you will save just that one part without changing the original file at all. How do you select? Put your Mouse cursor in between the upper and lower tracks. Hold down the left button and drag till you have the part selected that you want to work on, delete or alter. It will turn red like you see above. Then, just choose any function and Left Click it from any of the menus and the editor will perform the operation you want. And remember, if you don't like what you've done? No problem. Just click the UNDO arrow and it will be undone so you can try again. This makes it really easy, fast and lets you experiment all you want because for most operations, you're just one click from undoing anything you've tried. So, don't be afraid to experiment. It's the best way to learn.
|
How Do I Zoom In To See Exactly What I Want To Do? |
| YOU MUST SELECT AN AREA FIRST! You don't have to estimate where you want to make that change, take out that word or see if it's a track or a pause. Just Highlight (SELECT) the area in question as you learned in Selecting above. Then: Arrow 1. Click The + Magnifying glass and you'll zoom in to see the exact detail you want to see. There's really no limit to how far you can zoom in. An Explanation. Zooming in is variable. You can zoom in a little or a lot and you can zoom in more once you are zoomed in. Here's the deal. Whatever you highlight when you click the Zoom Button will become the entire visible screen in front of you. So if you highlight 90% of the screen, you'll just zoom in a little. If you only highlight 10% of the screen then it will expand about 9 times so you'll see a really detailed view. Try this a few times. There's nothing you can do wrong. And once you are zoomed in, if you highlight part of what you see in the window, and if you click the + Magnifying glass again, you'll zoom in that much more. You'll get the hang of it in just a few seconds. Arrow 2. In My Zoomed In Inset View toward the bottom of the picture, Grab this handle to move anywhere in the entire recording. Just because you're zoomed in doesn't mean you can't look at and work on the entire recording. You can. It's easy. You're just looking at a part of the entire file as you scroll from end to end. Arrow 3. Zoom Out Click this button and you'll be back to seeing the entire recording no matter how long it is compressed in just the area you can see. Arrow 4. Play At any time you can play anything that's shown in the window or whatever is highlighted. This way you never have to guess about what you are looking at. Just click play and you'll know 100% every time. It makes editing super easy. |
How Do I Find & Open A File/Track? |
| We get lots of emails about missing or lost tracks. It's really just Windows
Organization that's the problem, but here's all you do to open any track you've
recorded, or any .Wav, MP3 or CDA track you have in your computer. Arrow 1. Go to the File Menu Arrow 2. Choose Open Arrow 3. You can also Click the Open Folder Icon I'm showing you in the yellow inset. |
How Do I Find & Open A File/Track - No.2? |
| This is the Windows Open File Dialog Box. It's the same for all your programs,
not just ours. Arrow 1. This is telling you what folder you are looking in. And you need to know where you've saved your files to find them. Often it will be in My Music or My Documents. I recommend at the beginning that you just save them to the desktop so you can see where they are. Arrow 2. Click on the file you want to open Arrow 3. You can type the file name in here, but clicking on it is easier and faster. Arrow 4. Click Open BUT MY SONG ISN'T IN THIS FOLDER. WHAT DO I DO? Scroll Down. |
How Do I Find & Open A File/Track - No. 3? |
| OK if you look at the top box that says Look In again, you'll see to the right
there's an arrow (Not mine, the down arrow that's part of the box) When you click
on that arrow, you'll se all the folders on your computer. Just scroll down till
you find the folder you have your music in. If you don't see the folder, then
click on one the folders you do see to go into the subdirectory to find your folder.
A sub directory isn't anything fancy. It's just a folder in another folder. Arrow 1. Click the Pull down menu. |
How Do I Find & Open A File/Track - No. 4? |
|
| OK, here's the last thing. You can open 3 different types of files .Wave - Uncompressed best sounding file to use for recording and editing .MP3- Compressed file used where space is a problem like MP3 players .CDA- Like a .Wav file, but the native format on a standard Audio CD. Arrow 1. To open any of the 3 formats, just open this pull down box and choose the type of file you are opening. But I Still Don't See My MP3 Tracks.  IMPORTANT NOTE: You will only see the type
of file, Wav, MP3 or CDA that you have selected in this File Type Box. So if you
want to open MP3, you must first select MP3 in this box or your folder will look
empty like there were no files there. So, first SELECT your file type, then navigate to the folder
it's in to open it.Now you know how to find and open any file on your computer.
|
| How
Do I Find & Open A File/Track - No. 5? YOU CAN DIRECT OPEN CD AUDIO (cda) FILES FROM YOUR CDs.  |
|
| OK, this is hot. Up till now you needed to get a CD Ripper to transfer music
tracks from your CDs to your computer so you could copy them or edit them. Many
DAKonians open CDA files to shorten them for dance or gymnastic routines. It's been a bit of a headache but, Wave Editors don't come with CDA opening capability. Now the new DAK Wave & MP3 Editor/Recorder PRO does. Just navigate to your CD drive as I've done above and choose CDA from the drop down box Arrow 1 and you can now open CDA audio files instantly and effortlessly. This is the same box that you use to choose Wave & MP3 Files. So, now it's as easy to open CDA files as Wave & MP3 Files. Important Note: Do you see the track numbers Arrow 2, not names in the picture. People think that the names of the tracks are on the CDs they buy. But, they are not. Only the track numbers are there. The names weren't part of the CD format when it was invented. The DAK CD Ripper in tools actually goes out to the Internet to get you the track names. I just thought you'd want to know.
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How Do I UNDO Something I Don't
Like? |
|
| Don't worry about what you do. If you've selected, deleted a selection, added
a filter or just about anything, you can UNDO what you've done. Don't be afraid to try new things. All you need to do is try it, then undo it if you don't like the effect. Arrow 1. Just Click Undo to return to where you were before the last operation you performed. Arrow 2. If you decide you did like what you've just undone, no problem. This is REDO to put it back. YOU CAN GO BACK 99 steps so even if you've gone 2 or 3 steps into a project, just click the undo as many times as you like. Most, but not quite all functions can be undone.
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| How Do I Minimize, Close and get Full Screen?  |
|
| Because of space, I've shown all the Program pictures in their small or normal
size. But, if you just click One of the Screens, you'll see the program in full
screen mode. Then you'll have an even bigger work area for editing. Above you
can see the full size screen on your monitor by clicking the picture that matches
your monitor's screen resolution. Arrow This is the Windows Icon you are used to seeing for Minimize, Full Screen and Close. Arrow 1. Click this Dot to close the editor. Arrow 2.Click this Dot to go to full screen or return to normal. Arrow 3. Click this Dot to minimize the editor.
|
How Do I Make Changes To Only 1 Channel. |
| Sometimes you may want to work on only 1 channel at a time. With the editor,
it's easy. You can add echo, increase or decrease volume or remove sounds from
only one of the channels. Note: In Digital Recording, you cannot delete a channel or part of a channel because in digital files the two channels must maintain the same time base because they work together. But, if you want to minimize or reduce the sound or even eliminate the sound on only once channel, then just select that channel and use Amplify- a number of times till the channel is totally blank. That protects the time base and still eliminates the sound from either channel. OK, now that you know, here's how to work on only one channel at a time. Arrow 1. Just move your cursor up or down till you see the L for Left Channel or the R for Right Channel appear. Then left click it and as you'll see, the other channel will go dark and you can edit only the channel you want. Arrow 2. Here I clicked the L and now only the top Left Channel will be active for anything I want to do. Arrow 3. Here I clicked the R and now only the bottom Left Channel will be active for anything I want to do. NOTE: To return to two channel editing, just left click your mouse about 1/2 way into the channel that's been turned off. Then you'll have both channels working normally again. |
| How Do I Copy And Paste Any Part To Any Other Or The Same Effect?  |
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How Do I Append Or
Add To The End Of An Effect? |
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| What File Do You Want To Append Or Put At The End?  |
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That's It, The Tiger Roars And The Glass Breaks. |
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How Do I Loop Continuous
Play Forever? |
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|
The
Movement & Record Controls |
| Using these buttons is really obvious, but here's a quick rundown. Arrow 1. Play. Click to start playing wherever the cursor is. You can put the cursor anywhere you want and then play will start there. Also, just click Play to play any selected area. Arrow 2. Loop Play. This will play a selected section over and over again without break and without pause. Great for looping music or sound effects or learning the lyrics to a song or a foreign language. Arrow 3. Record. Click to start recording. Arrow 4. Sequence Record. See Sequence Record Section. Arrow 5. Play Pause. This pauses the editor in playback. There is no pause during digital record. Arrow 6. Pause Play. This starts the editor again after it's been paused. Arrow 7. Stop. This stops all play and record functions. |
| Mixing
Sound Effects Or Anything - Easy Let's Get A Cat & A Dog Together To See What Happens.  |
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| Mix
In The 2nd, 3rd or 10th Sound. OK, Here Comes The Cat  |
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Get
The New Track |
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| The
Final Mix Is Done Boy It's Noisy Here  |
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| How Do I Burn/Write CDs
That Play On My Home And Car CD Players?  |
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| There are just 2 tricks to making sure the CDs your burn will play
on your car and home CD players. Of course when you play them on your computer
CD player they will play, but you want them to play everywhere. Above is the DAK
CD burner screen that makes it easy to make sure you are setting your preferences
correctly. Arrow 1. When you launch this screen the program will poll and test your drive. You'll find this pull down window showing all the burn speed capabilities of your drive. Most CD Burning programs will have this type of speed choice. NOTE: If you see multiple burn speeds here, we recommend using about 1/2 the Max speed for making your audio CDs. In this case I'd use 16X or 24X. Arrow 2. You can play CDs that aren't Finalized/Closed on a computer but not on any other CD player. So We've prechecked this box for you. If you're only going to listen on your computer, you can uncheck it if you wish. Be sure that you finalize or close the CD on whichever program you use. Arrow 3. This is a progress meter. There's nothing for you to do but it will tell you what's going on every step of the way. Arrow 4. Click the Write Button to actually write the CD. Important Summary: How to make your CDs play everywhere. 1. If your burner allows it always burn at about 1/2 the max speed of the burner. 2. Always finalize or close your CDs so they will play on just about any CD player anywhere you are. They'll play in the car, in your home or on your portables. These are the only two tricks you need to know to get your CDs burned and playing wherever you want them to play.
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| Special Section -Timed Recording |
Automated Timed Record. |
| This is big. It's groundbreaking. It's going to take the hassle out of recording.
We've just added a Set and Forget Timer to the New Wave Editor Pro. Why do you
need it? Now you don't have to baby-sit your recordings. Most LPs are about 20 minutes per side. Just choose a time a few minutes longer than the side of your record or cassette. Click Timed Start, then start your LP or tape and go do something else. Note: When you use the Track Tracker to separate the tracks, it automatically discards anything before your first track or after your last. You no longer have to keep an eye on when your recording will be finished. Now you can simply come back any time. Save your file. Separate your tracks. Edit out talking. Or, do whatever you want to do with your music. Now you can concentrate on your music, not the act of recording. You can select any time from 1 minute to 360 minutes (6 hours) and it's all automated for you. Although for most computers, limit yourself to an hour or so at most. I've never seen a Length Timer incorporated into a Wave Editor before. This is a revolutionary improvement that will really free you to record while you do other things. It truly is a mega-time saver for all of us. Now you can convert all your Records, Tapes and Internet Radio easily and effortlessly. So, let's see how it works. |
Short
Version of Timed Record |
| OK, here's the executive summary. Open the Timed Recording Box. Choose the
Length you'd like to record, plus a few extra minutes. Click Start Timer. I told you it was easy and short. |
New
Length Timer In Detail |
|
| It's really easy to use (forgive all the numbers above, but I want to
show you everything). Arrow 1. This section is the Length Timer (Below is the Advanced Schedule Timer). Arrow 2. Just pull down this menu to choose a recording time. Most LPs run about 22 minutes, so you can use 24 or 25 minutes to be safe. Then you'll just delete the extra time with one click when you're separating the tracks. Arrow 2A. Special Internet Radio idea. When I'm listening to Internet Radio, often I really don't listen to the live broadcasts. What I do is record for an hour or so and then I play back my recording so I can select the music and content that I want as I listen to the playback. As you're listening, just highlight and select whatever you want to save and then choose 'Save Select' in the file menu. It's really great. Arrow 3. Then just Click Start. This Window will automatically close and the recorder will record for the time you have selected. Arrow 4. Pre-planned for easy use. Note: I've got 33 and 47 minute choices for cassettes. Often 60 minute cassettes run 62 minutes (31 minutes per side) and 90 minute cassettes are often 47 minutes per side. So I've got that covered too. Anyway, just select the time you want. This system is built to make all your converting of LPs to CDs, Cassettes to CDs and Internet to CDs easy, fast and frustration free. And as you can see it's done by someone (me) that's done a lot of it and knows what you need to get it done easily and fast. Final thought. You can also just type any number that you like into the box. You're not limited to my choices. But I've tried to give you all the choices that I think you'll ever need. ***Special Note: Does your cable TV have lots of music channels? If yours is like mine, you can choose all the digital channels you want. Each has a certain type of music. Anyway, just connect the audio from your cable system through our Mixer Interface and record all you want. Then, listen later and save the tracks you want. Now, isn't that a great idea to build some compilation CDs of music that you really love? Imagine just selecting a few tracks at a time till you have the world's greatest collection of what you love. It's really a great idea.
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Advanced
Timer & Scheduler Like a VCR. |
| OK, this is a very different timer. What if there's an Internet Radio broadcast
that you want to record at 8 PM tonight. But you're not going to be home, or if
you're like me you might have a 'senior moment' and forget to record it. Well, no problem. Now you can schedule your new DAK Wave Editor Pro to record for you at any time you like. And there's more. What if you want to record an AM radio broadcast or anything that's not in your computer. Just connect it to your computer using our Mixer Interface and leave on the AM or FM radio and set the timer to record. Now you can record just about anything, any time you want. Now you don't have to be home. Now it's easy. It's like a VCR for your audio. OK, let's see how to use it. |
Record
Any Time You Want - - - For As Long As You Want. |
| It's really easy and straightforward, but again, I want to be sure you see
everything you can do. So that's why I have so many arrows and numbers. Arrow 1. This is your Advanced Timer Scheduler Recorder. Arrow 2. This is the current Date and Time in your computer. Check to see that it's correct. If it's not, just double click your system clock in the lower right tray of your desktop. Arrow 3. Here's today's Date. You can change the date (see below) But now I'm going to record today. Arrow 4. Here is your Start Time. Just click the hour and set the time you want. You can click the little arrows with your mouse. You can use your up and down arrow keys, or you can type in the hour you want. Then just do the same for the minutes. Arrow 5. Do the same for your stop time. As you can see I'm recording from 11PM to 1 AM. Don't worry, I know and more important, the timer knows that we're changing dates. It's no problem. Arrow 6. Click the Start Button to turn on the timer. Arrow 7. Close this dialog box. That's it, you're ready to go. Important Note: The timer does not launch the program. (We don't want to take over your computer.) So, set the timer and minimize the wave recorder. Just don't close it or it won't record. The more you get into Internet Music, the more uses you'll find for our revolutionary new Wave Editor Timer and Scheduler Recorder. |
Long Term Scheduling |
|
| OK, this is a new feature that I'm not sure you'll use very often.
(Or, maybe you will.) It gives you the ability to record tomorrow, next week,
next month or even next year. But, honestly even thought it works perfectly, because you have to actually leave the program open, but minimized, and you can't turn off your computer, you're not likely to use this feature very often for really long term recording. However, if you're like me, the next day or middle of the night, or early in the morning recording can really be a lifesaver. Because I live in California, I tend to miss morning conferences and shows that come from the East. Now I don't. So, for next day and middle of the night recording, this is a real bonus to have. Just don't close it or turn off your computer. Arrow 1. Pop open the box to see other dates Arrow 2. Choose the day you want Arrow 3. Go to another month. Then just start the timer as you saw above. Just remember that your computer needs to be on and the program needs to be active.
|
|
How
To Read & Know The Time Of Your Files And Where You Are When You Zoom In. |
|||
|
| Configuration
- Access to Timed Record, MP3 Bitrate Control And More.  |
| Once you click Configuration, you'll have access to powerful control of how
your editor works and looks. Plus there are two Tabs you'll use all the time. Click to See Timed Recording Click To See MP3 Bitrate control. Below you will find detailed how to for each of the sections in the Configuration section. |
Setting
Up the Property Defaults - System |
| You're in control of all the default settings of this professional Wave &
MP3 Recorder And Editor. Most of these you'll never use. But, it's good to know
what you can do. Arrow 1. Shows the default temporary directory. You need to know this because about 20% of the computers don't seem to have this. When you click Record for the first time if you get a 'Runtime Error', your computer didn't have the directory. If you don't get the error, ignore my next paragraph. If you do get the error, simply go to your C Drive and make a folder that you can call MusicTemp. Then come back to this screen and type C:\MusicTemp\ and hit Enter. Now you have the directory. Oh, and when you hit enter, you won't see anything happen but don't worry. The program will know. Arrow 2. Remember, you must hit Enter or your temp file won't be activated. Arrow 3. There are up to 999 undo steps. You really can undo a great deal. |
Setting Up the Property Defaults - Scales |
|
| Arrow 1. I set the horizontal scale to Millisecond. I like to see how
long each track or recording is and work from that. If you like number of samples,
just choose that radio button. Arrow 2. For the Vertical Scale, I like dB because that's what we are working with to show volume. If you prefer samples or normal (just numbers) change it to that. You can also select only the left or right channel if you desire. The others are minor cosmetic variations you can experiment with if you choose.
|
Setting Up the Property Defaults - Color |
| Don't like my colors? Click any of the names of the parts of the Editor, then
click the Change Color button to bring up a color box you can use to select new
colors. |
Setting
Up the Property Defaults - Data |
| Unless you have a very slow computer, this is one box you can forget. Arrow 1. You can uncheck to increase speed, but with our minimum system requirements of 800Mhz, you might not see a difference Arrow 2. You can increase the crossfade time, but again, you probably won't see a difference. This is really setup to match your computer at installation. |
Setting Up the Property Defaults - Recording |
| If you can't get enough volume from your sound card, when you are recording
low quality voice from a phone line for example, Arrow 1. Check The Accu Control Arrow 2. Check The Auto Gain Control. Note: Don't check these boxes for music. |
Sequence
Recording - What Do You Want To Call Your Tracks? |
|
| Sequence record allows you to record segments of music without having to
stop and save and name your tracks as you go. Once you start recording, just click the SR button on the main interface each time you want the editor to automatically close the track that's being recorded, save and name it for you. It will name it as follows: Arrow 1. Type in the Prefix that each track will start with, such as Artist or Album name. That way each track will have the name you want. Then the editor will assign a track code so all the tracks will stay in order. Arrow 2. You need to Click the Apply button to have this take effect. Arrow 3. Create a folder somewhere on your computer and type the name of the folder here. This way, all the tracks will be recorded into this folder for you. Arrow 4. You need to Click the Apply Button to have this take effect. Is This Great or what? All you do is Click Properties on the main menu and pick 'Sequence Record' Then look at your options. First, you can choose the MAIN name for the tracks you're about to record. IMPORTANT NOTE: Many computers need time to save a track. So the Sequence or Segment record feature can take a few seconds to even 10 or 15 seconds to start recording again. Test this with your own computer. If it's too slow, we now recommend using the New Track Tracker Track Separating Technology in the Tools menu.
|
| SR - Sequence Record Automated Track Naming And Saving.  |
|
|
SR - Tracks Saved. |
|
| Here are some sample tracks that I recorded. I choose Limeliters
(my favorite group) as my prefix. So, they all have my Limeliters Prefix, followed by the time code. All you need to do is choose the ones you want and rename them as you go. You can play them, you can edit them. You can do anything. It's all super easy. Don't forget, you can change the Prefix names with every album, or not. You can use a separate folder within a folder if you want. In short, it's all up to you.
|
| Automatic
Time Record & Long Term Scheduled Record. |
|
| To use the timed record, just choose a time from Arrow 1. The Length Timer minutes window Arrow 2. Pull down the menu to choose other times Arrow 3. Start the timer. For The Full Story On The Timers, Click Here
|
| MP3
Bit Rate Setting
for Better Quality And Or File Size Reduction 
|
|
| MP3 files are important because they are about 1/10th
the size of Wave files. The only reason anyone cares about them is because they
save so much space. That's the only reason that they have become so popular. But
there are MP3 files and there are MP3 files. The standard for MP3 is a bit rate of 128. Your Wave & MP3 Editor and recorder is set to record and process MP3 files at 128Kbps. But there are reasons why you might want to change that bit rate and now in the newest version of the Editor, you can do just that. First though you should know that not all players will play MP3 files recorded at bit rates other than 128. That said, just go ahead and give it a try. There's nothing to lose. Just test it before you permanently commit. Why change the bit rate? Well by cutting the bit rate to 64, a normal 1 megabyte per minute MP3 file will become about 1/2 Meg. So if you have limited room, or a standard that calls for 64Kbps, then just switch to 64. Actually you can go all the way down to 8Kbps and a spoken word file set at 8, will be very; very small. But it's quality will be really poor. That's the tradeoff. How do you use the Bit Rate Window? Easy, just record any music or voice just as you would normally. Then come to this screen and slide the slider up or down to where you want. Then when you do a Save As, whatever rate you want will be saved. Conversely, if you save a file at 320Kbps it will sound better than the normal 128, but it will be several times larger. Again, that's the tradeoff. OK, here's what to do. Arrow 1. On the main Editor Interface click this Icon. It's the Configuration Button. Arrow 2. There are 8 tabs in the configuration window. Choose the MP3 Kbps Bit Rate Tab. Arrow 3. This is where you slide the slider to set the bit rate that you want to save. This is all there is to setting the Bit Rate. You're done. Arrow 4. I've just pasted another center section of this window so you see it set for 64. Arrow 5. Again, I've pasted the center section to show you what it looks like at 320. This is a really easy interface to use. But it's a very powerful tool to let you control file size.
|
|
One Click let's you Record and Edit your music. |
| Here are your one click ICON buttons. Most are self explanatory.
I thought you'd like to see an easy graphic with all the names in front of you. There are tool tips that appear when you place your cursor over each button, so you won't have any trouble remembering what each button is for. |
The
Pull Down FILE Menu |
|
| Most of these choices are self evident. But, if in doubt, here's what they
do New - Clears out anything in the Editor so you can start a new file Open - Opens a Wav, MP3 or CDA file that's already created. Convert Sample Type - Allows you to convert from Mono to Stereo & Back Plus lets you set maximum frequency response usually for voice recording only. Save - Saves the current open file over the original file. Save As - Saves the current open file to a New File Save Select As - Very powerful often used way to save just what you have selected. So, highlight a part you want like a track, or a theme from a song, then choose File/Save Select as and give it a name. The original file won't be altered but you will save just the part you want. Save Wave Image As Graphic - Saves a picture of the waves you see in the editor to a .bmp file that you can email to someone or study later.
|
The Pull Down EDIT
Menu. |
Copy - Copies any selected part of the open file Cut - Cuts any selected part of an open file Delete Selected - Deletes any selected part of an open file Paste - Pastes to where your cursor is located any part of a file that you have copied and is therefore on the clipboard. Paste From File - Pastes to where your cursor is located any file that you open through a dialog box that you get when you click this choice. Select All - Selects all of the open file. Mix - Mixes starting with where your cursor is located any part of a file that you have copied and is therefore on the clipboard. Mix From File - Mixes from where your cursor is located any file that you open through a dialog box that you get when you click this choice. |
The
Pulldown VIEW Menu. |
|
| Skin - I think that the skin (the visual look) of the DAK Recorder
Editor looks great. But, if you'd like a different color or look, check out the
Select Skin Dialog box. There are several other skins you can choose from. Important note: The skins for the DAK Recorder & Editor are very advanced. THEY MAY NOT WORK in Windows 95 and 98. They are really new. If you have any problems when you are using anything before Windows XP, just select NO SKIN and the program should work great. It just won't look as modern. It will look like all your other programs. Wave Form View - This is the traditional volume level related graphic that let's you see the sound waves. This is the default setting. Spectral View - This is a color spectral view of the spectrum. It's not useful for recording, but for isolating some types of sound it can be useful. Marker List - You can mark parts of your file and return to them later. This is useful in a large file that you might want to edit several times.
|
The
Pull Down OPERATION File Menu |
|
| Here's a list and description of all the 'Operations' you can perform. Try
each one so you get a good feeling of what they do. Advanced Operations Menu- This tab is so advanced it gets its own page. You'll add Echo, Slow down by as much as 50%. Speed listen at 200%. Change the Pitch. Advanced controlled Fade and much more. Click to See the Advanced Tab Amplify- - This Decreases the volume of the selected part (or all) of an audio file by -20% -40% or -60% each time applied. Amplify+-This Amplifies the volume of the selected part (or all) of an audio file by -20% each time applied. Delete Silence - This picks a level and deletes anything below it. Insert Silence - You can add different amounts of silence wherever your cursor is placed. Add 100 msec to 3 seconds with each click. You can also highlight a selection and cause the entire highlighted area to become silent. This is very useful for preserving a time constant for movies while eliminating sound you don't want. Fade+ - This Creates a fading out (loud to soft) effect in the selected part of the file. It goes from the current level to 0. It's very powerful because you control the length of the fade. You can go from 1 second to 20 seconds or anywhere in between. Fade- - This Creates a fading in (soft to loud) effect in the selected part of the file. It goes from 0 to the current level of the file. It's very powerful because you control the length of the fade. You can go from 1 second to 20 seconds or anywhere in between. Delay - This Creates a Delay effect in a selected part of the file. Delay is an echo effect that replays what you have played one or more times after a period of time. This is very powerful because it adds pleasing depth to voices. Try 75 msec. I just seem to like that delay. Echo - This gives you the deep in the well sound. This will launch a series of slide controls you can adjust described below. Flanger - This is an odd sound that many people refer to as a "whooshing" sound, or a sound similar to the sound of a jet plane flying overhead. Flanging creates a set of equally spaced notches in the audio spectrum. Flanging is created by mixing a signal with a slightly delayed copy of itself. Invert - This Inverts the selected part of a file. Mix Stereo Channels - You can evenly mix two stereo channels to get two mono channels which can be very useful for some musical effects. Normalize - This Normalizes the selected part of a file. It amplifies the selection part to within the specified percentage, of the maximum level. Pitch Shift - This isn't the pitch you using with singing. It's more of an interesting effect. For Pitch, use the Stretch +/1 below with frequency change. Reverse - This reverses the file. It plays it backwards. Stretch+ (w/o freq change) - SPEED LISTENING. You can stretch a selected part of a file by a time of +5 to +60%. Speech speed is increased without frequency changing. Now you really can save time by listening or recording at high speed. It's very clear and very useful. Stretch- (w/o freq change) - you can stretch a selected part of a file by time of -5 to - 60%. Speech speed is decreased without frequency changing. This is useful for dictation or copying the lyrics from a song. It's very clear and again very useful. Stretch+ (w/ freq change) - PITCH CONTROL. You can stretch a selected part of a file by a time of +5 to +60%. Speech speed is increased and frequency changes. This effects pitch so you can use this to change the pitch of a singer or musical piece 78 RPM Converter- Within the Stretch+ is my 78 RPM Convert. I've covered this in its own section, but all you do is Record your 78 at 45 RPM, then Click this converter and your 78 will be corrected from 45 RPM to 78 RPM sound perfectly. It's amazing. And the sound is nothing less than perfect. Here's the full step-by-step section. Stretch- (w/ freq change) - you can stretch a selected part of a file by time of -5 to - 60%. Speech speed is decreased with the frequency changing. This lowers the pitch. Use this for changing a singer's or musical piece's musical key. Vibrato - This causes a slight variation of pitch. Vibrato equals a cyclical changing of certain frequencies up and down like trembling Set it to 20-100.
|
The
Echo Chamber |
| This is the submenu for Echo from the Effects menu. Every sound
card is different, so your effects will vary. In short, the amount of echo shown
here which is the default, is usually best. But here's how to adjust it if you'd
like. Please remember with echo, less is generally better than more. Arrow 1. This is the main Slider to use. It adjusts the strength of the echo you're going to get Arrow 2. Delay Rate. This can add a more pleasing sound. Try decreasing it if it's tiny Arrow 3. Gain – This determines how loud the echo part is and if you increase it very much it's too strong and sounds tiny Arrow 4. Depth – This determines the depth of the echo and you can increase or decrease this to alter the sound of the echo. Arrow 5. Delay time. This let's you increase or decrease the length of time between the original and the actual echo. Arrow 6. OK, just click Apply and your echo effect will alter the highlighted area. And remember, just click Undo and try again if you don't get exactly the effect you want. |
The
Pull Down FILTERS Menu |
|
| You can correct problems in your music by reducing certain frequency groups.
This is what's called destructive restoration. So, use it sparingly. But if you
have the right problems, you'll not hear the loss that occurs when you use these
filters to help repair the audio problems. Band Pass - This Applies a Band Pass filter to the selected part of a file. The Band Pass filter consists of BOTH a Low Pass and a High Pass Filter combined together, so it allows only the frequencies falling within a certain range to pass. Low Pass -This Applies a Low Pass Filter to the selected part of a file. A low-pass filter eliminates unwanted high-frequency noise and interference. So, Low Pass means let the lows pass and stop the highs. High Pass - This Applies a High Pass Filter to the selected part of a file. A high-pass filter eliminates unwanted low-frequency noise and interference. So, High Pass means let the highs pass and stop the lows. Low Shelf - This Applies a Low Shelf Filter to the selected part of a file. A Low Shelf filter decreases the volume of the higher frequencies and lets the lowest pass. High Shelf - This Applies a High Shelf Filter to the selected part of a file. A High Shelf filter decreases the volume of the lower frequencies and lets the highest pass.
|
| DAK
TOOLS Separate Programs Pull Down TOOLS Menu.  |
|
| There's a NEW MENU on the PRO Toolbar.
It's called Tools and it's where you'll
find the Playlist Manager, CD Ripper, the Batch Converter, the MP3 Tag Editor,
the MP3 Player, the Song Stalker, the Track Tracker and your Easy Access to your
Windows Mixer and other sound components. Plus if you have the '.b upgraded version', you will also find the DAK CD Playlist Burner in the Playlist Manger section and the Voice Over PRO Recording/Mixing Program. 1. Now Included. The DAK Playlist Manager & CD Ripper, Plus Optional Playlist CD Burner. Each has it's own individual tutorial. Click To See - The Playlist Manager Tutorial Click To See - The CD Ripper Tutorial Click To See - The DAK Playlist CD Burner Tutorial 2. There's a new BATCH Converter. You can convert as many Wave Files as you like to MP3, and as many MP3 Files To Wave as you like too. It's easy. Just select a folder with all the files you want to convert and then send them to another folder and you're done. You can even select the MP3 bitrate and Wave Settings. 3. DAK Find It Print It Send it- is a powerful new program you'll use for both music and and other files. You can list and print all the files in any folder on your computer, or your entire computer. And you'll be able to find them like never before. Also you can use this new program to copy all the files in a folder to another location. It's very useful. Click For Find It Print It Send It Tutorial. 4. DAK Voice Over PRO (Optional with .b Burner Version) - Here's another powerful MULTI TRACK new recording and mixing program that will let you sing along with your favorite artists and mix your voice in with theirs. It lets you record your voice precisely synchronized but not mixed in. Then you can use special effects to perfect the mix before you permanently commit to the mix. It's also very powerful for doing movie, presentation and slide show narrations. You can layer as many different recordings or parts of recordings as you like. Here's the special page on DAK's new Voice Over PRO.  5. Get
Loaded File Info - Now with one click you can see what the bitrate of the file
you've loaded is, where it is and how long it is. This is a fast handy new tool.
What You see Here Is: It's at the C prompt and it's MP3, 44,100Khz stereo
at 128 Kbps and its file size.6. MP3 Tag Manager. Now you can not only see the info that MP3 files included, but you can edit it and add all you want. This is a very powerful editor. And it supports all the new ID tags that are used with MP3. 7. Why an MP3 Player? It's new, we just added. The Editor only can play one track at a time. With the MP3 player you can setup playlists to entertain you all day. It can be launched from the Editor or on its own. PLUS use if for recording. Play anything with the MP3 player and you can sing along and record sound on sound by recording BOTH what the MP3 Player is playing and any live source you add. It's easy. It's fast. And it's all explained below. 8. The New Song Stalker Program is launched from here. There's a whole section in the eBOOK you can read by Clicking Here. But, in short it finds the silent areas between tracks and automatically creates tracks for you. 9. The New Track Tracker is the best addition ever. This program works the 1st time every time to separate your tracks. It's super fast. You can mark all your tacks for separation in about 2 minutes. Here's the full story Click Here. 10. The System Sound Control gives you instant access to your Windows Mixer and other sound settings. See Below.
|
DAK
Playlist Manager/CD Ripper/Optional CD Burner |
| To say this it the best thing since sliced bread would be a horrible understatement It solves the age old Windows problem of alphabetizing your tracks instead of keeping them in track order. It let's you normalize, convert and so much more. Check out each of the full tutorials in the links below. You'll be very glad you did. Click To See - The Playlist Manager Tutorial Click To See - The CD Ripper Tutorial Click To See - The DAK Playlist CD Burner Tutorial |
BATCH
CONVERT WAVE TO MP3 AND MP3 TO WAVE FAST? |
|
| A NEW SUPER EXTRA. Many DAKonians (that's you guys) have BOTH CDs in
their cars and MP3 players to carry around and have wanted to have BOTH Wave &
MP3 music files. Also thousands of you have converted LPs and Cassettes to CDs with our LPs to CDR Perfection systems that now includes our Wave Editor. One problem has been that we offer one of the BEST Click & Pop filters ever created and it needs WAVE files, not MP3 files. Also our recording Equalizer needs .Wav files too. The reason for that is that you can't do much to MP3 files because they are compressed. So, there's been a lot of saving back and forth. OK, so now we have included the Batch Wave to MP3 and MP3 to Wave converter. Just put all the tracks (files) you want to convert in one folder and have them copied to another and you can convert 1, 10 or 100 tracks automatically. You'll love the freedom and time saving. It's easy to use. Arrow 1. First Choose the Input Folder. You click the . . .Button to Access the ability to Navigate to where you have the files you want to convert. Arrow 2. Then choose a new folder (one you probably just made) to receive the newly converted files. Arrow 3. Choose if you want to convert from MP3 to Wav or Wav To MP3. Remember if there are 10 files or 1000 files in the folder, they will all be converted automatically for you. Arrow 4. If you are converting to MP3 from Wave, you can also choose your bitrate. The Industry standard is 128. If you want to stay with the standard, just ignore this step. If you want bigger (maybe better sounding) files, choose a higher bitrate and if you want smaller, (not as good sounding files) choose a lower bitrate. It's all about file size with MP3. If you want to use standard 44,100 and stereo, just click the Convert Button and it will automatically convert all your files. It's just that easy to use. It will convert every file in your folder automatically.
|
The
DAK MP3 Tag Manager Main Screen |
| This is the main interface. I just wanted to put it here so you
could see what it looked like. In the action section you'll see I've loaded the
tracks from a CD I ripped to MP3 of my favorite Group the Limeliters. The album
is called Harmony, and I'll show you how to use the MP3 Tag manager with one of
these tracks. The tagger also searches your hard drive for ALL MP3 tracks or Wav tracks. Plus it supports the new MP3 images and much more. Visit the DAK MP3 Tagger & Computer Search Tutorial. |
Automated
MP3 & Wave Player Separate Program Just launch this great MP3 & Wave player on your desktop. It's just about 450x150 pixels and it looks and sounds great. Now you won't need a big player to listen to your tunes.  |
|
| This Is The BIGGEST Little MP3 and wave Player Ever. Let me
tell you all about it. But first, why put an instant launch, virtually no loading
delay MP3 and wave player in the DAK Wave & MP3 Editor?
|
Real
Time Recorder |
OK this is a little convoluted, but this is a Real Time recorder. What
that means is that unlike the powerful DAK wave and MP3 Editor, this just records
directly to your hard disc with no Temp files and no editing capability. |
Song Stalker Automated Internet Recording |
| This is the holy grail of track separation. It looks for the silence between
tracks and automatically, on the fly, closes the file you've been recording, names
it, numbers it and opens a new recording. But, often on LPs, 45s and cassettes there is really too much surface noise for the system to actually 'see' the silence. Many people try to sell you these silence sensing systems as being good for LPs and cassettes. But they are only about 70% successful and that's why we recommend the Track Tracker 1st Time Every Time Track Separation for your LPs, 45s and cassettes. But, if you are recording from the Internet, you won't have a much trouble with intertrack noise and then these automated silence seeking programs can be really good. Click for the Whole Song Stalker Tutorial. |
Track
Tracker Automated Track Separation |
||
|
| Finally
Instant Access To Your Windows Mixer and More! NO MORE HARD TO FIND CONTROLS.  |
|
| Click windows sound control to get instant access to your Windows Mixer and
much more. THIS IS IMPORTANT. PLEASE READ IT. The most frequent calls we get in Tech Support have to do with turning on your Windows Mixer and choosing which sliders to turn on. Also, sometimes you don't have the little speaker Icon showing in your tray by the clock, so we've added DIRECT ACCESS to all the functions right here in the new DAK Wave Editor Pro. You won't use these all the time, but now you know how to reach them instantly and easily. This will make a major difference to your recording and enjoying your music. Arrow 1. This is the sound card you have. Often if you have a problem, you need to know what type of sound card you have and now you will. It's not printed on the outside of your computer. Often it's not even on the bill. Now you'll know. Arrow 2. This is the System Volume control. If you single click the little speaker by the clock in your system tray at the bottom right of your desktop, you'll see that when you slide this slider it also slides the one pictured above. It's neat. But, now it's easy to access whenever you want. Arrow 3. Mute. This is a system mute. Again, it's the same as the one in your system tray. It's just more convenient here. Important. If you are recording, especially from the Internet, you can click this Mute button and record without bothering anyone around you. It's good to know where it is and this you will use. Arrow 4. OK, lots of you have said you don't have the little speaker in your tray (lower right hand corner where your system clock is) for your system volume. If it's not there, just check this box and you'll see it down by your clock. I always have mine there. (Windows XP Users look to the left of your clock if you don't have the speaker and look for a small sideways V or arrow. Click that and you may find the speaker.) Arrow 5. This is big. HERE'S YOUR WINDOWS MIXER. Just click this and you'll see the Windows Mixer that I've mentioned so often. It's really important that you have access to your Windows Mixer. Check out my next picture. Arrow 6. Some sound cards have this some don't. If you click it you'll find balance for your speakers and other convenience features that really do help you enjoy your music. Finally, every sound card is different. The Windows Mixer and options are totally dependent on your card. Windows just adds sliders and buttons that are appropriate for your card. So the basics will be here. You may find more or less with the same or different names, but they all do the same things. Now you can Check yours out with just a click. This is a real time saver and a view into your system that you've probably never had before.
|
Play
78 RPM Records On Your 45 RPM Turntable Like Magic. |
|
|
Totally
Automatic Conversions. |
|||
|
78 RPM Perfection. |
||
|
Delete
Obnoxious *%#*& Talking & Applause Way One |
|
|
| Edit
Out Any Part Like Artists Talking. Make Your Music The Way You Want It To Be Effortlessly  |
|
|
Insert
Silence. Remove Silence. Why Would I want that? |
|
|
Mark It For Later Reference. |
||
|
Separate
Tracks Visually - It's Easy. |
|
|
Saving
The Track You've Selected. |
|
|
Selection
Box Information |
|
| When you select an area to work on, you'll actually see a numeric representation
of what you've selected so it can be repeatable. Arrow 1 & 1a. This is the cursor at 1:14 seconds. The cursor (where the music is playing or paused will always give you the real time position. It's very precise. Arrows 2 & 2a. Now I've selected an area. This is the beginning of the selection. You'll see the actual real time position. It's 1:06 seconds. Arrows 3 & 3a. This is the end of the selection. It's at 2:00 seconds Now there's no guessing as to where you are and what you've selected. You'll know it exactly and it's great for editing, mixing and overlaying your tracks.
|
Zoom
Box Information |
|
| You can change the level of magnification in the main wave windows. Here I've
given you some examples so you can see what zooming does to your view. Arrows 1. This is the default setting of 100. for the vertical scale Arrows 2. Here I've set the vertical zoom to 65. As you can see there's greater vertical detail if I'm trying to do some intricate editing. Arrows 3. Here I've set the vertical zoom to 120 and everything looks vertically smaller to smooth over variations that might distract the editing process Arrows 4. Here is the horizontal zoom. As you can see the area you want to work on is spread out for more detailed viewing. Of course you can just use the zoom buttons to obtain this type of detail.
|
A few last things that I want to mention.  Here's one more tip. I always make two copies of all my CDs. Just
use any name brand stack that costs between $0.15 and $0.25 each. You don't need
anything fancy Since I have 12 CDs in my car and since it gets really hot when
I drive in the desert I don't want to take any chances. So I always make a spare
to keep at home. I think it's always a good idea.
Need I remind you at this point that it's illegal, immoral and fattening
to share your musical treasures with others? Don't make copies for
friends. Don't sell them. And well, don't cheat. It's easy to forget that
our old treasured albums are still under copyright. But chances are that
they are still protected. So why not head for the beach, the park or the hills
and sit down and listen to your great sounding music. You've just given yourself
a lifetime musical gift that you'll enjoy for many, many years to come. Still have questions? Did I miss something (probably)? I'll add it if you write to me. Enjoy. . . Drew
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