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Drew's
Wave (.WAV) and MP3 Editor PRO v3.5
Recording & Editing Tutorial
Here's How You Actually Record And Edit When You Copy LPs & Cassettes To CDs Or Record Streaming Audio & Radio From The Internet Or Record Live Using A Microphone.

A quick note from Drew. . .

This tutorial is all new and dramatically improved to help you get going fast. And more than that, I want to make sure that you know much more about the many things you can actually do with the new DAK Wave and MP3 Editor PRO than you knew you could do when you bought it.

Often we just scratch the surface of what a program can do for us. With these new tutorial improvements, I hope you'll be able to accomplish far more than you ever dreamed possible with just a minimum of effort.

I've made the Main Index (The First Picture Below) interactive so that you just mouse over most parts and instantly see what they do. Plus you'll get a brief description for each function.

If you click on the same part that you've rolled over you'll be taken to the step-by-step guide to explore the in-depth pictorial tutorial showing you how to complete your desired task.

You'll also find sub-indexes within the major sections to help you find the exact instructions you want, fast. I would greatly appreciate hearing your comments, suggestions and complaints about this all new tutorial.

I've tried to incorporate as many of your prior requests and suggestions as I was technologically able to do in this new version of both the Wave Editor PRO and this new eBook Tutorial guide. Please let me know where I've succeeded or failed so I can continue to improve for all of us.

Please Tell Drew (me) What You Think By Clicking This eMail Link.

OK, Here's the all new Wave & MP3 Editor v3.5 tutorial.


Interactive Index
Rollover Any Part For Quick Description.
Click On It For Detailed Step-By-Step Guide.

Hot Clicks
Click For Direct Links To These Detailed Sections.
 
More Special Sections
And Hot Links To Get You Going.
Here are some more Links to speed you on your way to easy recording and editing with the all new DAK Wave & MP3 Editor PRO.

5 Minute Get Started GuideRead this first to get the highpoints of using the editor
78 RPM Converter Use your 45 RPM turntable to convert 78s
Advanced TabLots of really advanced Effects, Echo, Slow & Fast and more
CD Ripper Grab all the tracks from a CD to your hard drive
Optional Playlist Burner - Burn 1 file, 10 files or all your files to Audio CDs, Easy
Direct CD Open (CDA)Grab and edit a single right off CDs
Live Recording All the tricks. Edit even part of a word, do sound on sound and mix your voice with music
Memory ManagerHow much RAM are you using and more
MP3 Batch ConverterConvert MP3s to Waves and Waves to MP3 by the 10s, 100s or 1000s automatically
MP3 PlayerNeed a small quick programmable MP3 player? Now you have it
Playlist Manager DAK's most important new tool over 10 audio tools included. Read this page.
Schedule TimerRecord at a later time or day
Set & Forget Length Timer Don't baby sit your recordings. Use the set and forget timer to stop the recorder after your LP, cassette or Internet broadcast is finished
Song StalkerFor Internet recording, it actually senses the silence between tracks and creates automatic track breaks, names and saves the tracks
Track Tracker Program DAK's most important tool. 1st time every time automated track separation. Names and numbers the tracks from your LPs, cassettes and Internet Recording
Your Computer's Audio Properties SelectorInstant access to all your computer's sound properties from within The tools section

 
Drew's 5-Minute Wave Editor
Recording Tutorial
It's really simple to record. I'll show you how to make your first recording. Then check out the main tutorial to learn all the really cool things you can do to record, edit and manipulate your music and spoken word recordings.

Here's all you need to know to get started.
Quick 5-Minute Guide Index
Major Tutorial Sections
How Do I Choose My INPUT Recording Source?
How Do I Set My Input Volume?
How Do I SAVE What I've Recorded?
How Do I SAVE A SELECTED PART Of A Track?
How Do I Record BOTH SIDES of my Records & Cassettes?
How Do I SELECT to use all the Filters & Operations
How Do I ZOOM IN?
How Do I FIND & OPEN A File That's Already Recorded?
How Do I UNDO Something I Don't Like?
How Do I Minimize, Close and get Full Screen?
How Do I Edit ONE CHANNEL ONLY?
How Do I Copy & Paste Parts Of A File From 1 Place to Another?
How Do I Append New Info To The End Of A File?
How Do I LOOP Play Part Of A File Continuously?

How Do I MIX 2 Or More Files For Sound On Sound &Harmony?
How Do I Record CDs That Play On My Car & Home CD Players?

The Main Screen
It's easy. To record, just click the Red Button. To stop recording, click the square Stop Button. And to Play back what you've recorded, click the Arrow Play Button.

What do you want to record? Open the Pull Down Box I've marked that says "What You Hear" in my picture and choose your source. See next picture below for the details.

How Loud is your recording? This is very important when you are recording. THIS IS YOUR INPUT VOLUME CONTROL. Be sure to set it. I show you what to do below.

That's basically what you need to know. Now I'll show you a few details and you can get started. But play with it all a little. Just make some 2 minute recordings to get the hang of it. Then you'll be all set.


Your Recording INPUT Choices. . .
(Yours Will LOOK Different)

OK, this is where you choose what you want to record. Think of it as a light switch in your home. If you want to turn on the bedroom lights, you don't turn on the living room lights. So here I'll show you what to choose.

Why will yours be different? PLEASE READ THIS. The names in the pull down box you see above aren't the names I've chosen for the DAK Wave Editor. What happens is that our editor polls your sound card and creates the pull down list from what your sound card calls each of the inputs to your computer. Your computer has the same inputs as mine, it might just call it something different. Don't worry, yours has what you need.

What You See Above is the Wave Editor Record Pull down box as it appears on 3 different computers at my desk. As you can see the names and the order they are in are all similar, but not identical. But like yours, they all do the same exact thing.

Here are the inputs.

1. For Internet Recording- Choose What You Hear. Your Sound Card may call it Stereo Mix, Wave Out Mix, or Wave. But they are all the same.

2. For Recording LPs, Cassettes or anything connected to the blue jack in the back of your computer- Choose Analog Mix. Your computer may call it LINE IN, AUX or AUX 2. NOTE: Use the plug in back for this. It's usually blue and it's right next to where you plug in your speakers. If you have front mounted inputs, you can use them but they may have some other name.

3. Live Microphone Recording- Choose Microphone. Your Sound Card might call it Mic.

4. Check this box or your selection won't take effect. Each time you choose a new source, you need to check this box, arrow 1, so your sound card will know what you want connected. Then you'll be all set. Sometimes it takes a few seconds before you can check it, but unless you have an external USB sound card, please remember to check it.

5. This is the Play Control. You don't need to use this. It's more of a system volume and it's best to just leave it in its default settings. As you see in arrow 1, unless you're using a USB adapter, leave it on Microsoft Sound Mapper which is usually default. Yours may be different than this and that's fine. Just don't change it for most times.

That should do it. Now you have Your Inputs all set. Now you can record.


But How High Do You Set Your levels?
This is probably the most common misconception in digital recording. Everyone wants to record too high or hot.

OK, I didn't record what's in the picture above. What you see here is the waveform from a commercial CD. Look at the recording level. Do you see in the wave windows that it's set to about 60% of the vertical height of the 2 Wave Windows?

You can see a few lines pop up above and below. That's fine. But if you want your recordings to be at the same level as commercial CDs (and you do) set your levels to about 60% of the level like you see here. And, the wave windows, not the VU meters are how to set your levels in a wave editor.

IMPORTANT NOTE: PROBLEMS? If when you record, the playback sounds muffled or distorted, it's only because you have recorded at too high a level and overloaded the recording. Just lower the input level slider above and your sound will be perfect. Your CDs will end up with the same volume as commercial CDs.

NOTE: When you move the recording level control, the volume doesn't actually change till you release the control.

Oh and did you notice that I've marked the Left and Right Channels? The top is always left and the bottom is your right channel.

Here's a tip. Make a test recording. Happily, recording digitally isn't like using a tape. You can stop and start and clear and delete any time you want. So at first, just play a minute or so of whatever your source is to see if you are comfortable with the level and playback in the editor. After you make a recording, just click stop. Then click play and you'll hear what you've recorded instantly.

Good News: Don't worry. All of this about input levels is really just for the first time you record. Most records and tapes are recorded at about the same level. You just need to know not to record too high and you're all set. And I wanted to be sure to get this idea across to you.

Note: When the editor is recording it looks like the picture above this picture. But when you stop recording, you'll see the waveform form up just like this picture above. It may take a minute or so to happen depending on the speed of your computer and the length of the recording. But, you'll see a blue line move across the editor just below the wave windows and that's the progress bar and an hourglass will replace your cursor's arrow. Don't do anything with the editor while it's working.


How Do I Save What I've Recorded?
OK, like a word processor, nothing is saved till you tell your computer to save what you've written or in this case recorded. So when you Click Record, everything is TEMPORALLY saved to your RAM and to a temp file you can't really get to again on your hard disk. So here's how you save what you've recorded.

Arrow 1. Click Record and Record whatever you want.

Arrow 2. Click Stop. Wait till the hourglass disappears as the Editor and your computer form the file in your screen. This can be instant for a small file or even several minutes for a large (long recording) depending on the speed of your computer and how much RAM you have. IF you don't wait, some or all of the recording won't be saved.

NOTE: Look two buttons to the left of the Record Button. That arrow is the Play Button. You might just Click it now to hear what you've recorded. This way you can be sure you've gotten what you thought you recorded before you save it and go on. Just do this a few times while you learn. There's no reason to do this when you are actually saving your LPs and cassettes, but while you are leaning it's just an easy thing to check.

Arrow 3. Then, go to File/Save As. (If you use save, you might overwrite something you want.) So usually use Save As.

This will Launch a dialog box .


The Save As Dialog Box
This Box is actually part of your Windows System and really easy to use.

Arrow 1. At the bottom type in your file name. Don't use special characters. Just use letters and numbers and call your musical masterpiece anything you like.

Arrow 2.
Here's the File Type Box. This lets you choose to save as Wave or MP3 files. Most of the time leave this as Wav because that's the industry standard uncompressed file for the best sound and easy editing and restoration and for CDs.

Arrow 3. Now where do you want to save the file? This is important because we get so many calls from people who recorded something but can't find it. This is all about Windows, nothing to do with us or any other program you use.

Just pick a spot that you'll remember and save it there.

What do I do? Easy. For Windows XP, the 2nd Icon down the left takes you to your desktop where you can actually see what you've saved. If you save your first few files here, you won't lose them while you get used to recording.

Then what I do is to create a folder on my desktop and save everything in there. It has the double advantage of keeping my tracks where I know where they are and not filling up my desktop with hundreds of music files.

Arrow 4. Note. If you're not using Windows XP, open this pull down menu and select the Desktop from your choices. It's the same as clicking the Icon, just two steps instead of one.

Arrow 5. OK just click save and you're all set. That's all there is to saving a file.


How Do I Save Just A Selected Part Of A Track
This is one of the super powerful parts of the Editor. Regardless of whether you recorded this track or just opened it, you can save any part you want as a new file.

Why would you want to save a part? Many reasons and you'll do it all the time. You might want to save a single track from a group of tracks when you aren't using the Track Tracker, or the opening or theme from some music or from one of the DAK Sound effects.

What I'm saving here is just the theme "Hey Big Spender" from the track of the same name. I'm going to use just this part as one of my incoming email notification effects. It's easy. It's fast and you'll do lots of things like this too, once you're comfortable with the Editor.

I've put in the words, which of course don't show in the program, but I wanted you to see how easy it is to spot the words you want to extract in the sound waves that you see. And you can just click Play to hear what you've selected, any time, no problem.

Arrow 1. I'm showing you what I've selected. See the detail on how to select if you haven't looked at it yet.

Arrow 2. Just choose File/Save Select As and only the part you've selected will be saved as a new file. The original file will remain untouched so you can always go back to it later.

Arrow 3. You really don't use this here, but I wanted you to see that I was zoomed in to see the words and remember that you just grab the green handle you see here to move to anywhere else in the track or file to work on that part.

That's it. Now you know how to select a Part of a file in addition to knowing how to select and save an entire file or track.
How Do I Record Both Sides Of My Record Or Cassette To A CD?
We get this question a lot and it's really easy. You can usually get both sides of your records and cassettes on a CD.

But, don't think 20th century analog, think digital CDs and MP3s. There are no more sides. Every song, track, movement or chapter (if you're copying books) is a separate file in digital recording.

After all you want programming and random access from your CDs. Plus if you don't have tracks there's no way to fast forward from one song to the next. Plus with digital you don't have to keep tracks you don't want, keep them in any order you don't like. It's a whole new freedom for you to enjoy your music.

OK, so let's do it. So an average record or tape probably has 6 or 7 tracks per side and here's how to record both sides.

Simply record side 1 as a single long track. Just as you learned to do in the How to Save in the pictures above.

Remember to:

Arrow 1. Record
Arrow 2. Stop.
Arrow 3. Go to File/Save As and Save it.

That's the end of side One.

Now BEFORE you start to record Side Two,
 
Arrow 4. Click The New Button Above. This clears Side One out of the Editor and you're ready to record Side Two. If you don't do that you'll record Side 2 over side 1 which is called sound on sound and you don't want to do that here.

That's all there is to it. After you've recorded Sides One & Two, then you open the Track Tracker in the Tools Menu and get your Tracks separated. It's fast and easy and covered by another tutorial and a movie too.

Naming Your Sides Special Note: When you name Side 2, don't use the same name that you used for side 1. In Windows, you can't have two files with the same name. So for side 2, just add a 2 to whatever name you are using. So if it's Myartist.wav for side one, use Myartist2.wav for side 2. All it takes is the one character to tell Windows that it's an entirely new file.

Note 2: Everyone thinks they want to Record Side One, Pause and then Record Side two as One Long File. It doesn't Work that way in digital. Do it as I described above and you'll get all your recordings onto CD easily and quickly.

Your CDs hold 72 minutes worth of your music and you can put as many tracks from as many records and cassettes as fit in 72 minutes onto a single CD.


How To Select.
How To Use Edit, Operation And Filters Menus.
Selecting is a basic Windows Function. It's the first step to using many of the Editors powerful functions. So, spend a few minutes getting comfortable making and using selections.

You'll use selections to apply any of the filters, operations and editing powers. You'll use it to select a part of delete or to copy. And, you'll select a part of a file or track that you want to save and then by going to File/Save Select as you will save just that one part without changing the original file at all.

How do you select?

Put your Mouse cursor in between the upper and lower tracks. Hold down the left button and drag till you have the part selected that you want to work on, delete or alter. It will turn red like you see above.

Then, just choose any function and Left Click it from any of the menus and the editor will perform the operation you want.

And remember, if you don't like what you've done? No problem. Just click the UNDO arrow and it will be undone so you can try again. This makes it really easy, fast and lets you experiment all you want because for most operations, you're just one click from undoing anything you've tried. So, don't be afraid to experiment. It's the best way to learn.


How Do I Zoom In To See Exactly What I Want To Do?
YOU MUST SELECT AN AREA FIRST!

You don't have to estimate where you want to make that change, take out that word or see if it's a track or a pause. Just Highlight (SELECT) the area in question as you learned in Selecting above. Then:

Arrow 1. Click The + Magnifying glass and you'll zoom in to see the exact detail you want to see. There's really no limit to how far you can zoom in.

An Explanation. Zooming in is variable. You can zoom in a little or a lot and you can zoom in more once you are zoomed in. Here's the deal. Whatever you highlight when you click the Zoom Button will become the entire visible screen in front of you. So if you highlight 90% of the screen, you'll just zoom in a little. If you only highlight 10% of the screen then it will expand about 9 times so you'll see a really detailed view. Try this a few times. There's nothing you can do wrong. And once you are zoomed in, if you highlight part of what you see in the window, and if you click the + Magnifying glass again, you'll zoom in that much more. You'll get the hang of it in just a few seconds.

Arrow 2. In My Zoomed In Inset View toward the bottom of the picture, Grab this handle to move anywhere in the entire recording. Just because you're zoomed in doesn't mean you can't look at and work on the entire recording. You can. It's easy. You're just looking at a part of the entire file as you scroll from end to end.

Arrow 3. Zoom Out Click this button and you'll be back to seeing the entire recording no matter how long it is compressed in just the area you can see.

 Arrow 4. Play At any time you can play anything that's shown in the window or whatever is highlighted. This way you never have to guess about what you are looking at. Just click play and you'll know 100% every time. It makes editing super easy.

How Do I Find & Open A File/Track?
We get lots of emails about missing or lost tracks. It's really just Windows Organization that's the problem, but here's all you do to open any track you've recorded, or any .Wav, MP3 or CDA track you have in your computer.

Arrow 1. Go to the File Menu
Arrow 2. Choose Open
Arrow 3. You can also Click the Open Folder Icon I'm showing you in the yellow inset.


How Do I Find & Open A File/Track - No.2?
This is the Windows Open File Dialog Box. It's the same for all your programs, not just ours.

Arrow 1. This is telling you what folder you are looking in. And you need to know where you've saved your files to find them. Often it will be in My Music or My Documents. I recommend at the beginning that you just save them to the desktop so you can see where they are.

Arrow 2. Click on the file you want to open
Arrow 3. You can type the file name in here, but clicking on it is easier and faster.
Arrow 4. Click Open

BUT MY SONG ISN'T IN THIS FOLDER. WHAT DO I DO? Scroll Down.

How Do I Find & Open A File/Track - No. 3?
OK if you look at the top box that says Look In again, you'll see to the right there's an arrow (Not mine, the down arrow that's part of the box) When you click on that arrow, you'll se all the folders on your computer. Just scroll down till you find the folder you have your music in. If you don't see the folder, then click on one the folders you do see to go into the subdirectory to find your folder. A sub directory isn't anything fancy. It's just a folder in another folder.
Arrow 1. Click the Pull down menu.

How Do I Find & Open A File/Track - No. 4?
OK, here's the last thing. You can open 3 different types of files

.Wave - Uncompressed best sounding file to use for recording and editing
.MP3- Compressed file used where space is a problem like MP3 players
.CDA- Like a .Wav file, but the native format on a standard Audio CD.

Arrow 1. To open any of the 3 formats, just open this pull down box and choose the type of file you are opening.

But I Still Don't See My MP3 Tracks.
IMPORTANT NOTE: You will only see the type of file, Wav, MP3 or CDA that you have selected in this File Type Box. So if you want to open MP3, you must first select MP3 in this box or your folder will look empty like there were no files there. So, first SELECT your file type, then navigate to the folder it's in to open it.

Now you know how to find and open any file on your computer.



How Do I Find & Open A File/Track - No. 5?
YOU CAN DIRECT OPEN CD AUDIO (cda) FILES FROM YOUR CDs.
OK, this is hot. Up till now you needed to get a CD Ripper to transfer music tracks from your CDs to your computer so you could copy them or edit them. Many DAKonians open CDA files to shorten them for dance or gymnastic routines.

It's been a bit of a headache but, Wave Editors don't come with CDA opening capability. Now the new DAK Wave & MP3 Editor/Recorder PRO does.

Just navigate to your CD drive as I've done above and choose CDA from the drop down box Arrow 1 and you can now open CDA audio files instantly and effortlessly. This is the same box that you use to choose Wave & MP3 Files. So, now it's as easy to open CDA files as Wave & MP3 Files.

Important Note: Do you see the track numbers Arrow 2, not names in the picture. People think that the names of the tracks are on the CDs they buy. But, they are not. Only the track numbers are there. The names weren't part of the CD format when it was invented. The DAK CD Ripper in tools actually goes out to the Internet to get you the track names. I just thought you'd want to know.


How Do I UNDO Something I Don't Like?
Don't worry about what you do. If you've selected, deleted a selection, added a filter or just about anything, you can UNDO what you've done.

Don't be afraid to try new things. All you need to do is try it, then undo it if you don't like the effect.

Arrow 1. Just Click Undo to return to where you were before the last operation you performed.
Arrow 2. If you decide you did like what you've just undone, no problem. This is REDO to put it back.

YOU CAN GO BACK 99 steps so even if you've gone 2 or 3 steps into a project, just click the undo as many times as you like. Most, but not quite all functions can be undone.


How Do I
Minimize, Close and get Full Screen?

Because of space, I've shown all the Program pictures in their small or normal size. But, if you just click One of the Screens, you'll see the program in full screen mode. Then you'll have an even bigger work area for editing. Above you can see the full size screen on your monitor by clicking the picture that matches your monitor's screen resolution.

Arrow This is the Windows Icon you are used to seeing for Minimize, Full Screen and Close.

Arrow 1. Click this Dot to close the editor.

Arrow 2.Click this Dot to go to full screen or return to normal.

Arrow 3. Click this Dot to minimize the editor.


How Do I Make Changes To Only 1 Channel.
Sometimes you may want to work on only 1 channel at a time. With the editor, it's easy. You can add echo, increase or decrease volume or remove sounds from only one of the channels.

Note: In Digital Recording, you cannot delete a channel or part of a channel because in digital files the two channels must maintain the same time base because they work together.

But, if you want to minimize or reduce the sound or even eliminate the sound on only once channel, then just select that channel and use Amplify- a number of times till the channel is totally blank. That protects the time base and still eliminates the sound from either channel. OK, now that you know, here's how to work on only one channel at a time.

Arrow 1. Just move your cursor up or down till you see the L for Left Channel or the R for Right Channel appear. Then left click it and as you'll see, the other channel will go dark and you can edit only the channel you want.

Arrow 2. Here I clicked the L and now only the top Left Channel will be active for anything I want to do.

Arrow 3. Here I clicked the R and now only the bottom Left Channel will be active for anything I want to do.

NOTE: To return to two channel editing, just left click your mouse about 1/2 way into the channel that's been turned off. Then you'll have both channels working normally again.


How Do I
Copy And Paste Any Part To Any Other Or The Same Effect?

OK, There's a lot here, but there's really nothing to it. I've just tried to put this all in one picture. Don't worry, this is super simple.

What we want to do is extract/copy a part from an effect. In this case ONE HEARTBEAT and put it in another place or in the middle of other effects. Here's all you have to do.

Arrow 1. You'll always see the name of your file here. This time it's heartbeat.wav

Arrow 2. Select the part you want. In this case I chose one heartbeat.

Arrow 3. It's always a good idea to Play your selection before copying it and using it.

Arrow 4. You can either use the Copy Icon as shown or open the Menu and choose Copy.

Arrow 5. OK, just click your Cursor where you are going to want to paste your copy of what you've selected. The dotted yellow line shows where the cursor is at any time. It doesn't matter if it's in the same effect as you copied or in another effect or musical track. When you copy anything it's on your Windows Clipboard and it will stay there till you put something else on it.

Arrow 6. This is what's in your computer memory, normally you can't see it unless you use the View Clipboard tool in Windows. But all you need to do is click EITHER the Paste Icon as shown or go to Edit and choose Paste. Then your selection will be pasted exactly where you want it. It's clean it's fast and it's a perfect digital copy.

You can use the same copied selection to copy and paste 100 times if you want. Once it's there, each time you click Paste, it will put a new, clean digital copy exactly where your cursor was positioned.

Now you know how to copy and paste any selection from any effect or any musical track into the same or any other effect or musical track. It's very powerful but very, very simple to do.



How Do I Append Or Add To The End Of An Effect?
OK, so you've got one effect loaded and you want to put another effect at the end. Of course you can add onto music tracks, voice narrations or anything.

Here's all you do.

Arrow 1. I have the tiger roar loaded.

Arrow 2. I put my cursor at the end. Remember that's the dotted yellow line.

Arrow 3. I open the Edit Menu and choose Paste from File.


What File Do You Want To Append
Or Put At The End?

Just choose any effect or music. Nothing could be easier.

Arrow 1. Click on the name of the effect and it will show up in the File Name box.

Arrow 2. Choose Open.


That's It, The Tiger Roars And The Glass Breaks.
Was this easy or what? Just look at what we've done. Because you are finished and there's nothing to do in this screen but admire your creation.

Arrow 1. This is where the cursor was, so that's where the new effect starts.

Arrow 2. Here is the Tiger Roar.

Arrow 3. Here is the Glass Shattering.

That's all there is to appending one effect onto another.

IMPORTANT NOTE: I used appending at the end for this example, but you could just as easily have put one effect into another by putting your cursor somewhere in the middle of the first effect. This will not mix the two. That's Mix from file. But it will insert the new effect into any place in the original that you want.


How Do I Loop Continuous Play Forever?
Here's another powerful extra ability you have. It's called loop play. After you select something as I have in Arrows 1, just click the Loop Play Button Arrow 2.

It will continuously play the selected section without pausing forever. This is very useful for musical backgrounds, effects that you want to keep playing behind other effects. And you can make a stress removing, tension melting environmental control machine using this feature too with the DAK sound effects.

Plus, it's great for learning something. Just loop the lyrics, words, phone numbers or just the measure or passage you want to study and you can easily hear it 100 times while you learn and absorb it.

Here I've taken the typing sound effect and by looping it, it sounds like this is one office that never stops working.



The Movement & Record Controls
Using these buttons is really obvious, but here's a quick rundown.

Arrow 1. Play. Click to start playing wherever the cursor is. You can put the cursor anywhere you want and then play will start there. Also, just click Play to play any selected area.

Arrow 2. Loop Play. This will play a selected section over and over again without break and without pause. Great for looping music or sound effects or learning the lyrics to a song or a foreign language.

Arrow 3. Record. Click to start recording.

Arrow 4. Sequence Record. See Sequence Record Section.

Arrow 5. Play Pause. This pauses the editor in playback. There is no pause during digital record.

Arrow 6. Pause Play. This starts the editor again after it's been paused.

Arrow 7. Stop. This stops all play and record functions.


Mixing Sound Effects Or Anything - Easy
Let's Get A Cat & A Dog Together To See What Happens.
OK, let's mix two sound effects together. It's easy. I've already loaded in a Dog barking into the Editor, let's add a cat meowing.

Arrow 1. Shows you were your cursor is right now. That's important because when you mix sounds or paste in a second sound you control exactly where you want it to start by putting your cursor in the exact spot you want to paste.

Arrow 2. This time I want to start at the beginning, but there's no reason I have to do it that way. It's up to me. And from now on, where you mix or paste anything will be up to you.


Mix In The 2nd, 3rd or 10th Sound.
OK, Here Comes The Cat
So, all we are going to do is electronically mix two sound effects. Since it's digital, there's no hum or noise and we could mix 10 sounds in if we wanted to.

Arrow 1. Put your cursor where you want the mix to begin.

Arrow 2. Go to Edit/Mix From File


Get The New Track
Now you can use any track on your computer. You can even mix MP3 and Wav. But right now, let's just add the cat.

Arrow 1. Here's the Cat. Just click it and it will show up in the File Name Box.

Arrow 2. Click Open.

That's all there is to mixing a file.


The Final Mix Is Done
Boy It's Noisy Here
That's it. You have the cat meowing and the dog barking and it's easy. It's fast and you've mixed tracks like a pro.

How Do I Burn/Write CDs
That Play On My Home And Car CD Players?

 
There are just 2 tricks to making sure the CDs your burn will play on your car and home CD players. Of course when you play them on your computer CD player they will play, but you want them to play everywhere. Above is the DAK CD burner screen that makes it easy to make sure you are setting your preferences correctly.

Arrow 1. When you launch this screen the program will poll and test your drive. You'll find this pull down window showing all the burn speed capabilities of your drive. Most CD Burning programs will have this type of speed choice.

NOTE: If you see multiple burn speeds here, we recommend using about 1/2 the Max speed for making your audio CDs. In this case I'd use 16X or 24X.

Arrow 2. You can play CDs that aren't Finalized/Closed on a computer but not on any other CD player. So We've prechecked this box for you. If you're only going to listen on your computer, you can uncheck it if you wish. Be sure that you finalize or close the CD on whichever program you use.

Arrow 3. This is a progress meter. There's nothing for you to do but it will tell you what's going on every step of the way.

Arrow 4. Click the Write Button to actually write the CD.

Important Summary: How to make your CDs play everywhere.

1. If your burner allows it always burn at about 1/2 the max speed of the burner.

2. Always finalize or close your CDs so they will play on just about any CD player anywhere you are. They'll play in the car, in your home or on your portables.

These are the only two tricks you need to know to get your CDs burned and playing wherever you want them to play.



Special Section -Timed Recording
Automated Timed Record.
This is big. It's groundbreaking. It's going to take the hassle out of recording. We've just added a Set and Forget Timer to the New Wave Editor Pro. Why do you need it?

Now you don't have to baby-sit your recordings. Most LPs are about 20 minutes per side. Just choose a time a few minutes longer than the side of your record or cassette. Click Timed Start, then start your LP or tape and go do something else. Note: When you use the Track Tracker to separate the tracks, it automatically discards anything before your first track or after your last.

You no longer have to keep an eye on when your recording will be finished. Now you can simply come back any time. Save your file. Separate your tracks. Edit out talking. Or, do whatever you want to do with your music.

Now you can concentrate on your music, not the act of recording. You can select any time from 1 minute to 360 minutes (6 hours) and it's all automated for you. Although for most computers, limit yourself to an hour or so at most.

I've never seen a Length Timer incorporated into a Wave Editor before. This is a revolutionary improvement that will really free you to record while you do other things. It truly is a mega-time saver for all of us. Now you can convert all your Records, Tapes and Internet Radio easily and effortlessly.

So, let's see how it works.


Short Version of Timed Record
 
OK, here's the executive summary. Open the Timed Recording Box. Choose the Length you'd like to record, plus a few extra minutes. Click Start Timer.

I told you it was easy and short.


New Length Timer In Detail
 
It's really easy to use (forgive all the numbers above, but I want to show you everything).

Arrow 1. This section is the Length Timer (Below is the Advanced Schedule Timer).

Arrow 2. Just pull down this menu to choose a recording time. Most LPs run about 22 minutes, so you can use 24 or 25 minutes to be safe. Then you'll just delete the extra time with one click when you're separating the tracks.

Arrow 2A. Special Internet Radio idea. When I'm listening to Internet Radio, often I really don't listen to the live broadcasts. What I do is record for an hour or so and then I play back my recording so I can select the music and content that I want as I listen to the playback. As you're listening, just highlight and select whatever you want to save and then choose 'Save Select' in the file menu. It's really great.

Arrow 3. Then just Click Start. This Window will automatically close and the recorder will record for the time you have selected.

Arrow 4. Pre-planned for easy use. Note: I've got 33 and 47 minute choices for cassettes. Often 60 minute cassettes run 62 minutes (31 minutes per side) and 90 minute cassettes are often 47 minutes per side. So I've got that covered too.

Anyway, just select the time you want. This system is built to make all your converting of LPs to CDs, Cassettes to CDs and Internet to CDs easy, fast and frustration free. And as you can see it's done by someone (me) that's done a lot of it and knows what you need to get it done easily and fast.

Final thought. You can also just type any number that you like into the box. You're not limited to my choices. But I've tried to give you all the choices that I think you'll ever need.

***Special Note: Does your cable TV have lots of music channels? If yours is like mine, you can choose all the digital channels you want. Each has a certain type of music. Anyway, just connect the audio from your cable system through our Mixer Interface and record all you want. Then, listen later and save the tracks you want. Now, isn't that a great idea to build some compilation CDs of music that you really love? Imagine just selecting a few tracks at a time till you have the world's greatest collection of what you love. It's really a great idea.


Advanced Timer & Scheduler Like a VCR.
 
OK, this is a very different timer. What if there's an Internet Radio broadcast that you want to record at 8 PM tonight. But you're not going to be home, or if you're like me you might have a 'senior moment' and forget to record it.

Well, no problem. Now you can schedule your new DAK Wave Editor Pro to record for you at any time you like.

And there's more. What if you want to record an AM radio broadcast or anything that's not in your computer. Just connect it to your computer using our Mixer Interface and leave on the AM or FM radio and set the timer to record.

Now you can record just about anything, any time you want. Now you don't have to be home. Now it's easy. It's like a VCR for your audio.

OK, let's see how to use it.


Record Any Time You Want - - - For As Long As You Want.
It's really easy and straightforward, but again, I want to be sure you see everything you can do. So that's why I have so many arrows and numbers.

Arrow 1. This is your Advanced Timer Scheduler Recorder.

Arrow 2. This is the current Date and Time in your computer. Check to see that it's correct. If it's not, just double click your system clock in the lower right tray of your desktop.

Arrow 3. Here's today's Date. You can change the date (see below) But now I'm going to record today.

Arrow 4. Here is your Start Time. Just click the hour and set the time you want. You can click the little arrows with your mouse. You can use your up and down arrow keys, or you can type in the hour you want. Then just do the same for the minutes.

Arrow 5. Do the same for your stop time. As you can see I'm recording from 11PM to 1 AM. Don't worry, I know and more important, the timer knows that we're changing dates. It's no problem.

Arrow 6. Click the Start Button to turn on the timer.

Arrow 7. Close this dialog box. That's it, you're ready to go.

Important Note: The timer does not launch the program. (We don't want to take over your computer.) So, set the timer and minimize the wave recorder. Just don't close it or it won't record.

The more you get into Internet Music, the more uses you'll find for our revolutionary new Wave Editor Timer and Scheduler Recorder.


Long Term Scheduling
OK, this is a new feature that I'm not sure you'll use very often. (Or, maybe you will.) It gives you the ability to record tomorrow, next week, next month or even next year.

But, honestly even thought it works perfectly, because you have to actually leave the program open, but minimized, and you can't turn off your computer, you're not likely to use this feature very often for really long term recording.

However, if you're like me, the next day or middle of the night, or early in the morning recording can really be a lifesaver. Because I live in California, I tend to miss morning conferences and shows that come from the East. Now I don't. So, for next day and middle of the night recording, this is a real bonus to have. Just don't close it or turn off your computer.

Arrow 1. Pop open the box to see other dates
Arrow 2. Choose the day you want
Arrow 3. Go to another month.

Then just start the timer as you saw above. Just remember that your computer needs to be on and the program needs to be active.


 
How To Read & Know The Time Of Your Files And Where You Are When You Zoom In.
The HMS, Hours Minutes Seconds lets you see where you are at all times. You'll know how long your files are and exactly where you are anywhere in your files.


Configuration -
Access to Timed Record, MP3 Bitrate Control And More.
Once you click Configuration, you'll have access to powerful control of how your editor works and looks.

Plus there are two Tabs you'll use all the time.

Click to See Timed Recording

Click To See MP3 Bitrate control.

Below you will find detailed how to for each of the sections in the Configuration section.


Setting Up the Property Defaults - System
 
You're in control of all the default settings of this professional Wave & MP3 Recorder And Editor. Most of these you'll never use. But, it's good to know what you can do.

Arrow 1. Shows the default temporary directory. You need to know this because about 20% of the computers don't seem to have this. When you click Record for the first time if you get a 'Runtime Error', your computer didn't have the directory. If you don't get the error, ignore my next paragraph.

If you do get the error, simply go to your C Drive and make a folder that you can call MusicTemp. Then come back to this screen and type C:\MusicTemp\ and hit Enter. Now you have the directory. Oh, and when you hit enter, you won't see anything happen but don't worry. The program will know.
Arrow 2. Remember, you must hit Enter or your temp file won't be activated.

Arrow 3. There are up to 999 undo steps. You really can undo a great deal.


Setting Up the Property Defaults - Scales
Arrow 1. I set the horizontal scale to Millisecond. I like to see how long each track or recording is and work from that. If you like number of samples, just choose that radio button.

Arrow 2. For the Vertical Scale, I like dB because that's what we are working with to show volume. If you prefer samples or normal (just numbers) change it to that. You can also select only the left or right channel if you desire.

The others are minor cosmetic variations you can experiment with if you choose.


Setting Up the Property Defaults - Color
Don't like my colors? Click any of the names of the parts of the Editor, then click the Change Color button to bring up a color box you can use to select new colors.


Setting Up the Property Defaults - Data
Unless you have a very slow computer, this is one box you can forget.

Arrow 1. You can uncheck to increase speed, but with our minimum system requirements of 800Mhz, you might not see a difference

Arrow 2. You can increase the crossfade time, but again, you probably won't see a difference. This is really setup to match your computer at installation.


Setting Up the Property Defaults - Recording
If you can't get enough volume from your sound card, when you are recording low quality voice from a phone line for example,

Arrow 1. Check The Accu Control
Arrow 2. Check The Auto Gain Control.

Note: Don't check these boxes for music.



Sequence Recording - What Do You Want To Call Your Tracks?
Sequence record allows you to record segments of music without having to stop and save and name your tracks as you go.

Once you start recording, just click the SR button on the main interface each time you want the editor to automatically close the track that's being recorded, save and name it for you.

It will name it as follows:

Arrow 1. Type in the Prefix that each track will start with, such as Artist or Album name. That way each track will have the name you want. Then the editor will assign a track code so all the tracks will stay in order.

Arrow 2. You need to Click the Apply button to have this take effect.

Arrow 3. Create a folder somewhere on your computer and type the name of the folder here. This way, all the tracks will be recorded into this folder for you.

Arrow 4. You need to Click the Apply Button to have this take effect.

Is This Great or what? All you do is Click Properties on the main menu and pick 'Sequence Record' Then look at your options. First, you can choose the MAIN name for the tracks you're about to record.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Many computers need time to save a track. So the Sequence or Segment record feature can take a few seconds to even 10 or 15 seconds to start recording again. Test this with your own computer. If it's too slow, we now recommend using the New Track Tracker Track Separating Technology in the Tools menu.


SR - Sequence Record
Automated Track Naming And Saving.
Here you see the actual recording screen of our SR Sequence Track Record.

Here's how to use Sequence Record.

Arrow 1. Click Record. Then at the end of each track or song, you click the SR button and the file is closed, named with a Prefix of your prior choosing and identified by time.

Then as soon as the saving process is finished, you can start recording the next track. Depending on the speed of your machine and how long the recorded track was, it usually takes 2-15 seconds.

Finally at the end of the last track you want to record, click the Stop button and save the last track manually.


SR - Tracks Saved.
Here are some sample tracks that I recorded. I choose Limeliters (my favorite group) as my prefix.

So, they all have my Limeliters Prefix, followed by the time code. All you need to do is choose the ones you want and rename them as you go. You can play them, you can edit them. You can do anything. It's all super easy.

Don't forget, you can change the Prefix names with every album, or not. You can use a separate folder within a folder if you want. In short, it's all up to you.


Automatic Time Record & Long Term Scheduled Record.
To use the timed record, just choose a time from

Arrow 1. The Length Timer minutes window

Arrow 2. Pull down the menu to choose other times

Arrow 3. Start the timer.

For The Full Story On The Timers, Click Here


MP3 Bit Rate Setting
for Better Quality And Or File Size Reduction
MP3 files are important because they are about 1/10th the size of Wave files. The only reason anyone cares about them is because they save so much space. That's the only reason that they have become so popular. But there are MP3 files and there are MP3 files.

The standard for MP3 is a bit rate of 128. Your Wave & MP3 Editor and recorder is set to record and process MP3 files at 128Kbps. But there are reasons why you might want to change that bit rate and now in the newest version of the Editor, you can do just that.

First though you should know that not all players will play MP3 files recorded at bit rates other than 128. That said, just go ahead and give it a try. There's nothing to lose. Just test it before you permanently commit.

Why change the bit rate? Well by cutting the bit rate to 64, a normal 1 megabyte per minute MP3 file will become about 1/2 Meg. So if you have limited room, or a standard that calls for 64Kbps, then just switch to 64. Actually you can go all the way down to 8Kbps and a spoken word file set at 8, will be very; very small. But it's quality will be really poor. That's the tradeoff.

How do you use the Bit Rate Window? Easy, just record any music or voice just as you would normally. Then come to this screen and slide the slider up or down to where you want. Then when you do a Save As, whatever rate you want will be saved. Conversely, if you save a file at 320Kbps it will sound better than the normal 128, but it will be several times larger. Again, that's the tradeoff.

OK, here's what to do.

Arrow 1. On the main Editor Interface click this Icon. It's the Configuration Button.

Arrow 2. There are 8 tabs in the configuration window. Choose the MP3 Kbps Bit Rate Tab.

Arrow 3. This is where you slide the slider to set the bit rate that you want to save. This is all there is to setting the Bit Rate. You're done.

Arrow 4. I've just pasted another center section of this window so you see it set for 64.

Arrow 5. Again, I've pasted the center section to show you what it looks like at 320.

This is a really easy interface to use. But it's a very powerful tool to let you control file size.


 
One Click let's you Record and Edit your music.
Here are your one click ICON buttons. Most are self explanatory.

I thought you'd like to see an easy graphic with all the names in front of you.

There are tool tips that appear when you place your cursor over each button, so you won't have any trouble remembering what each button is for.


The Pull Down FILE Menu
Most of these choices are self evident. But, if in doubt, here's what they do

New - Clears out anything in the Editor so you can start a new file

Open - Opens a Wav, MP3 or CDA file that's already created.

Convert Sample Type - Allows you to convert from Mono to Stereo & Back Plus lets you set maximum frequency response usually for voice recording only.

File ID tag - Allows you to edit and create all the MP3 information tags

Save - Saves the current open file over the original file.

Save As - Saves the current open file to a New File

Save Select As - Very powerful often used way to save just what you have selected. So, highlight a part you want like a track, or a theme from a song, then choose File/Save Select as and give it a name. The original file won't be altered but you will save just the part you want.

Save Wave Image As Graphic - Saves a picture of the waves you see in the editor to a .bmp file that you can email to someone or study later.


The Pull Down EDIT Menu.

Copy - Copies any selected part of the open file

Cut - Cuts any selected part of an open file

Delete Selected - Deletes any selected part of an open file

Paste - Pastes to where your cursor is located any part of a file that you have copied and is therefore on the clipboard.

Paste From File - Pastes to where your cursor is located any file that you open through a dialog box that you get when you click this choice.

Select All - Selects all of the open file.

Mix - Mixes starting with where your cursor is located any part of a file that you have copied and is therefore on the clipboard.

Mix From File - Mixes from where your cursor is located any file that you open through a dialog box that you get when you click this choice.

Delete Silence - Reduces an area that is silent by 1/2 second

Insert Silence - Inserts a 1/2 second of silence where your cursor is located. You can insert as much silence as you wish by clicking this multiple times. Note: People think they have to insert silence between tracks, but you don't. The silence between tracks on a CD is created automatically by the CD Burning process.


The Pulldown VIEW Menu.
Skin - I think that the skin (the visual look) of the DAK Recorder Editor looks great. But, if you'd like a different color or look, check out the Select Skin Dialog box. There are several other skins you can choose from.

Important note: The skins for the DAK Recorder & Editor are very advanced. THEY MAY NOT WORK in Windows 95 and 98. They are really new. If you have any problems when you are using anything before Windows XP, just select NO SKIN and the program should work great. It just won't look as modern. It will look like all your other programs.

Wave Form View - This is the traditional volume level related graphic that let's you see the sound waves. This is the default setting.

Spectral View - This is a color spectral view of the spectrum. It's not useful for recording, but for isolating some types of sound it can be useful.

Marker List - You can mark parts of your file and return to them later. This is useful in a large file that you might want to edit several times.


The Pull Down OPERATION File Menu
Here's a list and description of all the 'Operations' you can perform. Try each one so you get a good feeling of what they do.

Advanced Operations Menu- This tab is so advanced it gets its own page. You'll add
Echo, Slow down by as much as 50%. Speed listen at 200%. Change the Pitch. Advanced controlled Fade and much more. Click to See the Advanced Tab

78 RPM Converter- I've covered this in its own section, but all you do is Record your 78 at 45 RPM, then Click this converter and your 78 will be corrected from 45 RPM to 78 RPM sound perfectly. It's amazing. And the sound is nothing less than perfect. Here's the full step-by-step section.

Amplify+ - This Amplifies the selected part (or all) of an audio file by +20% each time applied.

Amplify - -This Decreases the volume of the selected part (or all) of an audio file by -20% each time applied.

Fade+ - This Creates a fading out (loud to soft) effect in the selected part of the file. It goes from the current level to 0.

Fade- - This Creates a fading in (soft to loud) effect in the selected part of the file. It goes from 0 to the current level of the file.

Delay - This Creates a Delay effect in a selected part of the file. Delay is an echo effect that replays what you have played one or more times after a period of time.

Flanger - This is an odd sound that many people refer to as a "whooshing" sound, or a sound similar to the sound of a jet plane flying overhead. Flanging creates a set of equally spaced notches in the audio spectrum. Flanging is created by mixing a signal with a slightly delayed copy of itself.

Invert - This Inverts the selected part of a file.

Normalize - This Normalizes the selected part of a file. It amplifies the selection part to within the specified percentage, 80%, of the maximum level.

Vibrato - This causes a slight variation of pitch. Vibrato equals a cyclical changing of certain frequencies up and down like trembling .

Reverse - This reverses the file. It plays it backwards.

Stretch+ - You can stretch a selected part of a file by a time of +20%. Speech is increased without frequency changing.

Stretch- - you can stretch a selected part of a file by time of -20%. Speech is decreased without frequency changing.


The Pull Down FILTERS Menu
You can correct problems in your music by reducing certain frequency groups. This is what's called destructive restoration. So, use it sparingly. But if you have the right problems, you'll not hear the loss that occurs when you use these filters to help repair the audio problems.

Band Pass - This Applies a Band Pass filter to the selected part of a file. The Band Pass filter consists of BOTH a Low Pass and a High Pass Filter combined together, so it allows only the frequencies falling within a certain range to pass.

Low Pass -This Applies a Low Pass Filter to the selected part of a file. A low-pass filter eliminates unwanted high-frequency noise and interference. So, Low Pass means let the lows pass and stop the highs.

High Pass - This Applies a High Pass Filter to the selected part of a file. A high-pass filter eliminates unwanted low-frequency noise and interference. So, High Pass means let the highs pass and stop the lows.

Low Shelf - This Applies a Low Shelf Filter to the selected part of a file. A Low Shelf filter decreases the volume of the higher frequencies and lets the lowest pass.

High Shelf - This Applies a High Shelf Filter to the selected part of a file. A High Shelf filter decreases the volume of the lower frequencies and lets the highest pass.


DAK TOOLS
Separate Programs Pull Down TOOLS Menu.

There's a NEW MENU on the PRO Toolbar. It's called Tools and it's where you'll find the Playlist Manager, CD Ripper, the Batch Converter, Memory Manager the MP3 Tag Editor, the MP3 Player, the Song Stalker, the Track Tracker and your Easy Access to your Windows Mixer and other sound components. Plus if you have the '.b upgraded version', you will also find the DAK CD Playlist Burner in the Playlist Manger section.

1. Now Included. The DAK Playlist Manager & CD Ripper, Plus Optional Playlist CD Burner. Each has it's own individual tutorial.

Click To See - The Playlist Manager Tutorial
Click To See - The CD Ripper Tutorial
Click To See - The DAK Playlist CD Burner Tutorial

2. There's a new BATCH Converter. You can convert as many Wave Files as you like to MP3, and as many MP3 Files To Wave as you like too. It's easy. Just select a folder with all the files you want to convert and then send them to another folder and you're done. You can even select the MP3 and Wave Settings.

3. The memory manager lets you see a lot of really valuable information about your computer. First, it's simply good to know. Second, it's really fun and exciting to see your computer's heart-rate and Brain Waves. This is like an always running EKG and EEG of your computer. And, if all that's not enough, it's really useful when somebody like DAK Tech Support for example needs to know about your system.

4. MP3 Tag Editor. Now you can not only see the info that MP3 files included, but you can edit it and add all you want. This is a very powerful editor. And it supports all the new ID tags that are used with MP3.

5. Why an MP3 Player? It's new, we just added it in PRO v3.3. The Editor only can play one track at a time. With the MP3 player you can setup playlists to entertain you all day. It can be launched from the Editor or on its own. PLUS use if for recording. Play anything with the MP3 player and you can sing along and record sound on sound by recording BOTH what the MP3 Player is playing and any live source you add. It's easy. It's fast. And it's all explained below.

6. The New Song Stalker Program is launched from here. There's a whole section in the eBOOK you can read by Clicking Here. But, in short it finds the silent areas between tracks and automatically creates tracks for you.

7. The New Track Tracker is the best addition ever. This program works the 1st time every time to separate your tracks. It's super fast. You can mark all your tacks for separation in about 2 minutes. Here's the full story Click Here.

8. The System Sound Control gives you instant access to your Windows Mixer and other sound settings. See Below.


DAK Playlist Manager/CD Ripper/Optional CD Burner
To say this it the best thing since sliced bread would be a horrible understatement
It solves the age old Windows problem of alphabetizing your tracks instead of keeping them in track order.

It let's you normalize, convert and so much more. Check out each of the full tutorials in the links below. You'll be very glad you did.

Click To See - The Playlist Manager Tutorial
Click To See - The CD Ripper Tutorial
Click To See - The DAK Playlist CD Burner Tutorial


BATCH CONVERT WAVE TO MP3 AND MP3 TO WAVE FAST?
A NEW SUPER EXTRA. Many DAKonians (that's you guys) have BOTH CDs in their cars and MP3 players to carry around and have wanted to have BOTH Wave & MP3 music files.

Also thousands of you have converted LPs to CDs with our LPs to CDR Perfection system that now includes our Wave Editor.

One problem has been that we offer one of the BEST Click & Pop filters ever created and it needs WAVE files, not MP3 files. Also our recording Equalizer needs .Wav files too. The reason for that is that you can't do much to MP3 files because they are compressed. So, there's been a lot of saving back and forth.

OK, so now we have included the Batch Wave to MP3 and MP3 to Wave converter. Just put all the tracks (files) you want to convert in one folder and have them copied to another and you can convert 1, 10 or 100 tracks automatically. You'll love the freedom and time saving.

It's easy to use. First Choose the Input Folder. You click the . . .Button to Access the ability to Navigate to where you have the files you want to convert. Then choose a new folder (one you probably just made) to receive the newly converted files.

If you want to use standard 44,100 and stereo, just click the Convert Button and it will automatically convert all your files. It's just that easy to use. It will convert every file in your folder automatically.


Memory Manager - Memory Info
Most of this info is just good to know. First, you can see how much RAM your computer actually has. You'll see how much is used and how much is free. Now you really do know with a single click how much memory is in your computer.

Next, there's a measure of your virtual memory. Here's the deal. You have RAM and that's really fast. But, you probably don't have enough to keep everything you're working on in memory. If you did, your computer would operate faster.

But, because you don't, your computer being very smart, writes some of what is in your RAM to the hard disk. This happens lots of times a second. You don't know it's happening, but the result is that you basically can have unlimited RAM. The downside is that Virtual RAM slows down whatever you're doing because writing to the hard drive is really slow compared to writing to RAM. But it beats crashing your computer.

The final two arrows tell you about how much extended virtual RAM is available and what the Memory load at present. Probably not very important to you, but vitally important to your computer. OK, now let's check out your CPU

NOTE: You can free up RAM by clicking the Free Memory Now button at the bottom left.

Memory Manager - CPU Info
Do you know what speed your computer is? What kind of CPU? How many CPUs you have? Now you will. This computer of mine has a 2.53GHz CPU by Intel. And the first arrow shows that while I captured this screen it wasn't doing anything. Your should see it fly when I'm doing something.

Remember, that you can use all this info any time. It's really not info about the DAK Wave Editor Pro program, it's information about your computer and what it is and how it's doing.


Memory Manager - Windows Info
OK, so what operating system do you have? I guess you know that. But did you know which version you have? So when you hear of a bug fix, you can see if yours is included? Also you'll see your user name and if you're in a network, the computer name as well.

Plus, there's a System Up Time Clock that tells you how long your computer has been on since you last shut it down.

Again, this is all good useful information that's going to make you a much more sophisticated computer user, especially when you're talking to a Tech, anytime, anywhere.


MP3 ID3v2 Tag Editor
When you Click Tools/MP3 IDTag Editor, you gain a whole new level of info control over your MP3 files. Our new tag editor is the most powerful tag editor I've seen. It let's you add, edit and delete tons of information and gives you instant access to the technical file data too.

Arrow 1. This is the Audio (MP3) File Tag Editor. It's not actually part of the Editor it's a separate program that resides within the DAK Wave Editor. Why? We'll you don't have to actually go through the process of opening files to read their tags or add or edit tags.

Arrow 2. Just Click the . . . Button and navigate to the file you want to name or edit. You'll do it all without ever having to open the file.

Arrow 3. When you Click the Set Button, whatever data is in any or all of the boxes in this screen will be permanently saved with the MP3 file. Now there's even comments.

Arrow 4. Just fill in any of these boxes with whatever relevant information you'd like. It will be there from now on.

Oh and at the bottom right, you have your choice of ID3v1 which is the industry standard or ID3v2 which will probably become the next standard.


Automated MP3 Player Separate Program
This Is The BIGGEST Little MP3 Player Ever. Let me tell you all about it. But first, why put an instant launch, virtually no loading delay MP3 player in the DAK Wave & MP3 Editor?

The Wave Editor plays one track at a time with no automation. So if you want to listen to 3 or 4 songs in order, there's just no way to do it in a Wave Editor. Now there is.

Plus, lots of you like to sing along with your music or yourself. Now you can play something you've already recorded in this powerful MP3 player and record live into the Wave Editor and have BOTH your live recording and whatever this MP3 player is playing recorded at the same time. It's easy. It's fast and you'll be making really incredible sound on sound and mixed recordings from now on.

OK, so why is this 'nothing looking' MP3 player so powerful? Well hang on and we'll explore it together.

Arrow 1. Just Click Play, Pause or Stop to listen to your music.

Arrow 2. Click on any song/track in the playlist and it will start playing.

Arrow 3. Skip to the next song(s) or back to the last song(s)

OK now it starts getting powerful

Arrow 4. Click Clear Playlist and all tracks in it will be cleared.

Arrow 5. Open Playlist. You can save playlists so that you can listen to your favorite music just the way you want. Listen in Album order or any way you like. It's very powerful and you can make playlists out of whatever MP3 tracks you have on your computer no matter where they are.

Arrow 6. Oops, don't want that song to play? No problem Highlight it and click the Delete Song Button and it's gone.

Arrow 7. Save NEW playlist. Just click to add songs or folders and when you have a group of songs you like, just click the create playlist button and whenever you want that group of songs in the order you've chosen to play, you're just one click away.

Arrow 8. Add Song. Just click this button and then navigate to the track you want and it will be instantly added.

Arrow 9. ADD FOLDER. This is my favorite. Just Click this button and then navigate to a folder of songs you've created and the Player will load them all with a single click. Wow, this is really powerful.

Arrow 10. Bring up your Windows Control Center. You can adjust the system volume or anything else you want to control in the Windows Mixer. This is a direct link to your system controls. Very convenient.

You can Launch the Player with or without the Wave Editor and it only takes up about 330 pixels on your desktop. It's going to make your music listening much more convenient. It even has its own launch Icon in the Start menu and you can drop a shortcut to your desktop too.

Oh and unlike the other players which you probably use now, this super small (in program size) opens virtually instantly. You won't have to wait for 30-60 seconds while your main MP3 player loads before you can even hear your first song. This really is a terrific addition to both the DAK Wave Editor and your computer musical enjoyment.


Song Stalker Automated Internet Recording
This is the holy grail of track separation. It looks for the silence between tracks and automatically, on the fly, closes the file you've been recording, names it, numbers it and opens a new recording.

But, often on LPs, 45s and cassettes there is really too much surface noise for the system to actually 'see' the silence. Many people try to sell you these silence sensing systems as being good for LPs and cassettes. But they are only about 70% successful and that's why we recommend the Track Tracker 1st Time Every Time Track Separation for your LPs, 45s and cassettes.

But, if you are recording from the Internet, you won't have a much trouble with intertrack noise and then these automated silence seeking programs can be really good.

Click for the Whole Song Stalker Tutorial.


Track Tracker Automated Track Separation
Here's 1st time every time easy track separation. This is the best way to separate your tracks, period.

Just look at the screen

Arrows 1 & 2. Click your cursor in between the tracks

Arrow 3. Click the ADD Marker Button on the Tracker

That's all it takes.

This is the most powerful tool for separating tracks EVER.

Click to see the whole Track Tracker Tutorial.


Finally Instant Access To Your Windows Mixer and More!
NO MORE HARD TO FIND CONTROLS.
Click windows sound control to get instant access to your Windows Mixer and much more.

THIS IS IMPORTANT. PLEASE READ IT.
The most frequent calls we get in Tech Support have to do with turning on your Windows Mixer and choosing which sliders to turn on. Also, sometimes you don't have the little speaker Icon showing in your tray by the clock, so we've added DIRECT ACCESS to all the functions right here in the new DAK Wave Editor Pro. You won't use these all the time, but now you know how to reach them instantly and easily. This will make a major difference to your recording and enjoying your music.

Arrow 1. This is the sound card you have. Often if you have a problem, you need to know what type of sound card you have and now you will. It's not printed on the outside of your computer. Often it's not even on the bill. Now you'll know.

Arrow 2. This is the System Volume control. If you single click the little speaker by the clock in your system tray at the bottom right of your desktop, you'll see that when you slide this slider it also slides the one pictured above. It's neat. But, now it's easy to access whenever you want.

Arrow 3. Mute. This is a system mute. Again, it's the same as the one in your system tray. It's just more convenient here. Important. If you are recording, especially from the Internet, you can click this Mute button and record without bothering anyone around you. It's good to know where it is and this you will use.

Arrow 4. OK, lots of you have said you don't have the little speaker in your tray (lower right hand corner where your system clock is) for your system volume. If it's not there, just check this box and you'll see it down by your clock. I always have mine there. (Windows XP Users look to the left of your clock if you don't have the speaker and look for a small sideways V or arrow. Click that and you may find the speaker.)

Arrow 5. This is big. HERE'S YOUR WINDOWS MIXER. Just click this and you'll see the Windows Mixer that I've mentioned so often. It's really important that you have access to your Windows Mixer. Check out my next picture.

Arrow 6. Some sound cards have this some don't. If you click it you'll find balance for your speakers and other convenience features that really do help you enjoy your music.

Finally, every sound card is different. The Windows Mixer and options are totally dependent on your card. Windows just adds sliders and buttons that are appropriate for your card. So the basics will be here. You may find more or less with the same or different names, but they all do the same things.

Now you can Check yours out with just a click. This is a real time saver and a view into your system that you've probably never had before.


Play 78 RPM Records On Your 45 RPM Turntable Like Magic.
If you're like me, you have a bunch of 78s that are just sitting around. And your really good turntable doesn't play 78s. So, until now, you've no way to copy them to CDs let alone listen to them at all.

Now you can. DAK's all new 78 Automatic Converter lets you copy your 78s to your computer and then with a single click, listen to them again. It's great. It's easy and yes, you can easily restore them and burn them to CDs too.

Just Choose:
1 The Operations Menu and
2. Select 78 RPM Converter

Let's see how it works.


Totally Automatic Conversions.
OK, here's all you do. Get out your 78 RPM records. And put one on your turntable.

Select 45 RPM and you're set.


Click the Record Button on the Wave Editor/Recorder and then put the needle in the groove.

Just choose 45 RPM on your turntable and your 78s will soon be flawlessly copied to your computer and on CDs for you to enjoy from now on.
After you've played one side of the 78, Click Stop, name and save the file.

OK, now the fun begins.

1. Click The Operations Menu
2. Click 78 RPM Converter.

And like magic, the 78 RPM record that you played at 45 RPM will be converted to the correct speed. Click Play and you'll see how GREAT it sounds.

Finally, just for fun, note that Arrow 3 shows that my recording is 5 minutes long. After we convert it, it will be shorter because we will have corrected the speed. I just thought you'd be interested.

Oh, and don't worry, when you play the 78s they will sound very slow. That's because they are being played at 45 RPM, not 78. But don't worry, they will sound perfect after the conversion is finished. Just wait till you hear your 78s again on your own system.


78 RPM Perfection.
So, how good are your 78s? How good will they sound? Well they will sound really good.

Virtually all the scratches your 78s had can be eliminated with the Click & Pop filter that's included with our LPs to CDs systems. Your 78s will sound great.

If the records have what's called crackle, you can clean it up using the Filter Frequencies filter also included in the Click & Pop filter, but that's not as spectacular as the click and pop filters. In short, you should be able to get the best possible recordings and from the results I've had on about 35 of my 78s that I've converted so far. You are going to be thrilled.

One note: In a perfect world, a 78 record should be played with a spherical needle that's somewhat wider than the Elliptical Styluses that we use today. But, I've tested the two side by side and really haven't been able to determine any difference. I guess that conventional wisdom would say that if you have 100s of 78s, you might want to get a different cartridge, but if it's any less I don't think you'll notice any difference at all.

The playing at 45 RPM is really good. In fact, I've found 0 loss of quality in any of my tests between playing at 78 and 45. It really is amazing.

You will finally be able to listen to and copy to CDs all your 78s without investing in the space or expense of a 78 RPM turntable that's not very good for playing 45s and LPs anyway.

Enjoy your 78s and Enjoy them as you copy them to CDs.

Now all the great music from:

Caruso,
Glen Miller,
Tennessee Ernie Ford,
Bing Crosby
Nat King Cole
and so many more,

won't be lost to you and future generations of music lovers. Our new 78 RPM Converter is a real musical breakthrough.


Delete Obnoxious *%#*& Talking & Applause Way One
OK to me, this is like the biggest thing that I can do to enhance the enjoyment of all my music. I can't speak for you, but when I own an LP and I've listened to it hundreds of times, I get really tired of listening to the same jokes, the same inter-track talking and even the applause. Well, no more.

Now we can all effortlessly and easily remove it. It just takes a few seconds ONCE and it's gone FOREVER. Then when you make your CDs, you'll only have the music you love without all the interruptions.

So, how do you do it? Simple. Just select the part of the track that has the 'talking' Remember you can play what you've selected by just touching the play button. It's so easy, if you don't get it the first time, you will the 2nd time. And remember, you can just drag the little triangles at the top or bottom to increase or decrease the area you've selected.

Anyway, here I've selected the area of the track I don't want to be stuck listening to from now on.

Arrow 1. Here's the before ending that the Artist wanted. There's both applause and talking here. And I'm tried of hearing it.

Arrow 2. Just click Play and make sure you've highlighted and selected the part you want.

Arrow 3. Finally, just go to Operation/Fade- and as you can see by the last arrow on the right, I've faded to 0 to get rid of it all. This is the same way that the studios fade the music you hear and now you can do it too.

You could of course have zoomed in if you wanted to and if you don't want to fade it, just click Edit/Delete Selected as I show you in the next example.


Edit Out Any Part Like Artists Talking.
Make Your Music The Way You Want It To Be Effortlessly

This talking is a really big thing for me. I hate all the talking. I hate it. I really hate it. Here the unnamed entertainer was taking again. And guess what, I Selected it. And I deleted it. It took me just a few seconds to save the music from all the *#@*&~ infernal talking. I'll never have to listen to it again as I play my CDs and MP3 files.

Here's how easy it is to get rid of the infernal talking that so many entertainers insist on putting on their LPs, 45s cassettes & CDs. Especially their live in-concert CDs. Anyway, all you need to do is to select any part of the recording that you'd like to eliminate and then Just Click 'Delete Selected'

Is it really that easy? Yes, and here's what you do.

Arrow 1. Simply highlight any area you'd like to delete.

Arrow 2. Click Play. Is it the right area? It's great when you can see the waveform because you can see what you hear and that makes life really easy. Anyway once you've selected the area you want, how do you get it just right? The exact spot?

Do you see the little triangles at all 4 corners of the red selected area above? Just grab any of them with your mouse and move them in or out to enlarge or reduce your selected area.

Arrow 3. Just click Delete and you're done.


Insert Silence. Remove Silence. Why Would I want that?
 
What if there's not enough silence between tracks (or too much)? What if you have a long track that you want to break into segments? No problem.

Simply put your cursor where you want the silence and

Arrow 1. Click the 'Insert Silence' Button. You'll be adding .5 seconds (1/2) (500 Milliseconds) each time you click. You can remove silence the same way, just use 'Delete Silence'. Of course if you have more than a few seconds, just select the area and choose delete. But, this is really fast and easy to use.

Arrow 2. You can see where the silence was inserted.

NOTE: You don't need to use this to put the intertrack silence that you get on a CD. Your CD burning program does that. This is for inserting more silence there or a break where no track exists now.


Mark It For Later Reference.
This program is super smart. As I've said before it does all the heavy lifting so you don't have to. If you're doing some fancy editing, you might want to do 2 or 3 versions. So, just mark the spot you want to work from (or as many spots as you like) and you can always come back to the exact same spot with a single click during the same session. Once you close the editor, this info will not be saved. This really is a time saver. And all you do is:

Arrow 1. Go to View/Marker List

Arrow 2. Put your cursor where you want to make a mark

Arrow 3. Click the Add Marker Button.


Separate Tracks Visually - It's Easy.
In this picture, the small arrows are actually the tracks from a Limeliter Album that I recorded the other day.

Usually you'll use the highly automated Track Tracker to separate the tracks and then just save the ones you want and delete the others. It's really fast and very, very automated.

But if you want to separate out a track visually or grab a part of a track or a part of a sound effect, here's how to do it easily and visually. This is why a wave editor is so good. It's because you can see everything you want to do.

Arrow 1. Highlight the track as you see it starting from the left.

Arrow 2. Release your mouse when you have highlighted just the track you want.

Important Note: Do you see the little yellow triangles at all 4 corners of the selected area? Use those to make fine adjustments to what you've selected. No need to reselect from either end if you didn't get it perfect. Just grab the triangles and adjust.

Arrow 3. Can't see the track space clearly enough? No problem Click the zoom in button and you'll see it super clear and super big. Then you can just zoom back out or scroll using the green bar to go to the next track.

Arrow 3A. Ah, now I see it. Once you're zoomed in as I am here in this inset, you simply can't miss the track separations. It's all really simple.

OK, now let's save the Selected Track.
Saving The Track You've Selected.
Saving is just like we've learned before. After you have the selection the way you want it and don't forget if you want you can always click play to be sure, but with tracks, it's so visually clear, you really don't need to, just:

Arrow 1. Click Save Select As and give it a name and a place to be stored.

Now you know how to save a track or any selection the easy visual way with the Wave Editor.


Selection Box Information
When you select an area to work on, you'll actually see a numeric representation of what you've selected so it can be repeatable.

Arrows 1. This is the cursor at a position of 22. As you can see the selection box isn't checked, but you can see exactly where the cursor is numerically.

Arrows 2. Now I've selected an area. And the left side is at 22.

Arrow 3. This is the right side of the selection. It's at 33

Arrow 4. As you can see when something is selected this box selects itself.


Zoom Box Information
You can change the level of magnification in the main wave windows. Here I've given you some examples so you can see what zooming does to your view.

Arrows 1. This is the default setting of 100. for the vertical scale

Arrows 2. Here I've set the vertical zoom to 65. As you can see there's greater vertical detail if I'm trying to do some intricate editing.

Arrows 3. Here I've set the vertical zoom to 120 and everything looks vertically smaller to smooth over variations that might distract the editing process

Arrows 4. Here is the horizontal zoom. As you can see the area you want to work on is spread out for more detailed viewing. Of course you can just use the zoom buttons to obtain this type of detail.


 
A few last things that I want to mention.
Here's one more tip. I always make two copies of all my CDs. Just use any name brand stack that costs between $0.15 and $0.25 each. You don't need anything fancy Since I have 12 CDs in my car and since it gets really hot when I drive in the desert I don't want to take any chances. So I always make a spare to keep at home.
I think it's always a good idea. Need I remind you at this point that it's illegal, immoral and fattening to share your musical treasures with others? Don't make copies for friends. Don't sell them. And well, don't cheat. It's easy to forget that our old treasured albums are still under copyright. But chances are that they are still protected.
So why not head for the beach, the park or the hills and sit down and listen to your great sounding music. You've just given yourself a lifetime musical gift that you'll enjoy for many, many years to come.

Still have questions? Did I miss something (probably)? I'll add it if you write to me.

Enjoy. . . Drew


Tutorial Review Please.
So, What do you think? Good? Bad? Was this tutorial Helpful? Too detailed? Not Detailed enough? What would you do differently?
What do you want to know? What subject would you like me to write a tutorial about?
Please CLICK
to tell Drew (me) PERSONALLY.

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