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Better Sound Through Science.

Drew's Equalizer And Frequency Equalization Tutorial

The More You Know, The Better It Sounds.

Hi, Drew Here. . . To make this tutorial really easy to use, I've broken it into 3 easy parts.

FLASH - Instant 'How-To' Movie. Just click. No downloads. It plays right on your web page. See and hear all the action. Click To See The Recording EQ Movie.

Part 1 is A short introduction into what frequencies are.

Part 2 is the actual step-by-step guide on using the DAK Recording Equalizer Click to see the step-by-step guide now.

Part 3 is a more detailed guide on frequencies in music that you can read at your convenience but certainly isn't necessary or required to use the equalizer to really make your music explode with vibrant passionate life. Click To see the details about frequencies in your music.

Believe me. As soon as you Click My Magic Bypass Button, You'll Be a Believer Just Like I Am. OK, let's get started.

Part 1.
First a word about Fundamental Frequencies and Harmonics. Musical 'notes' are made up of fundamental tones (frequencies) and harmonics. It's the harmonics that allow you to know the difference between one instrument and another.

Of course if you strike a string like a piano (yes it is a percussion instrument), pluck a guitar, or draw a bow over a cello, you'll have additional clues to work with.

But we perceive the notes on a musical instrument or sung by a vocalist by combining fundamental and harmonic tones. And like other perceptions, we actually construct the combination of sounds in our brains.

When we hear a note like middle A on a piano, a complex set of oscillations are transmitted through the air to our ears. The lowest frequency is the fundamental. In the case of middle A for example, it's 440 Hertz. And the higher related frequencies, the harmonics, of 880, 1320, 1760, 2200hz complete the musical sound we hear.

But it's the fundamental that what we call the actual note. And when you use a tone generator or test disc to generate a sine wave of say 440hz, it's the fundamental note alone without harmonics.

Of course music is composed of thousands of frequencies all sounding at once. But that doesn't change the fact that it's composed of individual tones. So for understanding, it's much easier to look at the frequencies one at a time. Looking at one 'note' at a time doesn't change the equation, it just makes it easier for us to look at it and understand it.

Now On To The Musical Spectrum

The Approximate Frequency Ranges chart below displays the frequencies generated by some familiar musical instruments (including our voices) with BOTH the numerical fundamental and harmonic approximate frequencies shown.

Given the often-talked-about musical range of 20hz-20khz, it is surprising to see just how low the musical fundamental frequencies actually are (almost all are under 3,500khz). But remember, it needs to be understood that if all instruments were perceived only by their fundamental frequency outputs, they would all sound alike. It is the harmonics that give each individual instrument its character, or timbre, and set it apart from all the rest.

Interestingly, the human ear is more sensitive to certain octaves in the musical spectrum than to others. The ear is tuned more toward the midrange frequencies, where speech and voice communication occur (I guess we're still cave people), than to the outer octaves of low bass and high frequency musical harmonics.

As a result, very small energy changes in the midrange frequencies cause much more noticeable effects than do larger changes in the very low and/or very high frequency ranges.

So what is bass? What is treble? Oh, and what about midrange? Let's break them down right here.

My chart above shows the approximate frequency ranges of various musical instruments and the human voice. The black boxes represent their fundamental frequencies and the yellow boxes represent their harmonic frequencies. It's much easier to understand and enhance the instruments you want to hear when you know what frequencies they cover.

Here's Your Step-By-Step Guide To Using
Your New DAK Recording Equalizer.

Easy Install

After you download your Equalizer and this Tutorial eBook, and you've unzipped them, just Double Click The setup Icon Arrow 2 and follow the easy install prompts. After it's setup, you'll never use the setup Icon again. If you want a permanent copy of it, just copy it to a CD. After that use the DAK EQ Icon Arrow 1 and launch the program.

The Main Recording Equalizer Interface

OK, I wanted to briefly familiarize you with the EQ. It's really easy to use. Virtually everything is in front of you all the time. So here's a quick overview of how to use it.

1. Browse and All Files Buttons give you access to opening your Wave Music Files. To open 1 or several files in a folder your looking in, Click Browse. If you're in a folder already and you want all of the files (tracks), then click the All Files Button and it will load them all with a single click. There's no real limit to how many files you can load.

2. Play/Preview your track(s). Now you can hear them and use the sliders to enhance them.

3. Lock Sliders is really useful. You can equalize each channel separately, but most of the time you will probably equalize the Left and Right Channels together. Just Click the Lock Sliders Button and any changes you make in one channel will be duplicated on the other. This is a really good button to use to save you time

4. The Bypass Button is my all time favorite button. Just slide all your sliders till you have the full excitement that you want to add to your music. It's amazing just how much drama, life and impact you can really add. Anyway, after you're set, then click this button to hear the startling day and night difference. You'll be a believer too and this might be a good time to let me know what you think of the DAK Recording Equalizer. Because there's nothing like an A/B test like this to prove just how good it is.

5. There are all your sliders. Just start your music. Don't worry, you aren't recording, you're just previewing. Anyway, start your music and adjust the sliders till you love it. There's no real right and wrong. If you like it, it's good.

6. Process/Record Button. OK, you like the sound. Now it's time to make an entirely new copy of your track(s) When you click the Process/Record Button, The DAK Recording Equalizer will make you an entirely NEW copy of your track. Your original will be untouched and your new copy will have whatever new suffix you've added (see options below). So, you can enhance 1 track or a 100 tracks. Just click the one button.
Note: This is a very intense process. It will tie up your computer while it's operating. So, start it when you don't have to use your computer till the process is finished. Also if your computer is at all slow, you can use the Graphics On Button to turn off the graphics (the meters) and that will help. But it's not necessary for most computers.

7. Easy Mid-Track Access. One more thing about playing tracks. If you want to hear a part of a track over while it's playing, you can grab the progress bar tab and slide it backwards or forwards to the exact part of the track you want to Play/Preview. You don't have to wait till you get to a part to hear how it will sound. As I said in my review, I think I've included everything that could help us.

Choose One Or Many Tracks.

Above I showed you how to click the Browse button to choose one or several tracks. Here's the Dialog Box that Opens when you click the Browse Button.

1. Here's all you do. Click on 1 track that you want to open and then click the 4 Open Button. IF you want to open several tracks and they are together, then you can hold down your shift key while you click the files. So if you wanted to open Tracks 1 and 2, you could do it this way. If you'd like to open several tracks, but they are not in order like the example above, then Hold Down the Control Key while you click the tracks you want to open. Then Click the 4 Open Button and they will all open. Also you'll see a list of the tracks you are opening in the box marked with arrow 3 above.

2. Where are your files? You can navigate to the folder you have your tracks in by opening the 2 box and finding the folder. I've also put an arrow next to Desktop on the left. In Win XP, that's a shortcut to get to your desktop.
Note: I always recommend that you start using a program like my Equalizer by putting your tracks on your desktop so you don't lose them as you practice and get started. Then you can put them wherever you want. But many times I get calls about lost tracks in the 'My Documents' folder. If you put them there you may never find them again.

Here's Your Track List Once It's Loaded

Again, this is what your tracks look like once you've opened them in the program. They won't normally be in any particular order, but don't worry, when you play them you can choose any track you want to Play/Preview.

Great System Controls Make It Easy.

Here's just a quick picture of the 4 main buttons you'll use to control the Equalizer
1 Reset. Very simple. This returns all the sliders and volume/balance controls to flat default settings.

2. Presets. This gives you access to your saved presets and the create preset button.

3. Lock Sliders. Here you can lock the Left and Right Channel Sliders or unlock them if they are locked.

4. Bypass. Well, this button you'll use a lot. Wait till you hear the sonic difference. The bypass works on all sliders and volume controls.

Preset Heaven - Do it Once, Enjoy It Always.

Unlimited Presets make things great for using my Equalizer. Of course you want to use presets so you don't have to reset your equalizer. But also use them because if you're like me, you might forget a setting that you really like. And with one click save or delete, you can create new presets with confidence because you know you can always delete them with a single click.
1/2. Load. OK here's how you use your presets. Click on any preset in the list and then click the Load Button. That's all there is to using them. And when you do click load, you'll see all the sliders on the equalizer jump to their saved position. Neat.

3. Save. OK this IS NOT for saving new presets. If you tweak a preset you already have and want to make changes, then load it, use it, make your changes then come back to this preset box and click save. This will change the preset to what you want now.

4. Delete. Well, like I said. You're always one click away from deleting a preset, so make lots of them. You'll be glad you did.

5. Create Preset. This is all you do. Click this button and jump to the next section.

6. After you've loaded a preset or saved or deleted one, just click the OK button and your ready to use it.

Instant Preset Creator.

Making Presets couldn't be easier. Just Enter any name you like in Box 1 and then Click OK at button 2.

What Do You Want to Call Your Tracks? And Where Do You Want Them To Go?

Here are the other Buttons from the main interface screen. Button 1 is the Process Record Button. When everything is set, just Click it and let the Equalizer improve all your files. Right now, Click the Options Button (2) and we'll decide what you want to name your new files and where you want them to go when they are re-recorded.

Options Of What To Call Your Tracks And Where To Send Them.

This is another UNIQUE extra plus for My DAK Recording Equalizer. This is a very important section.
1. This is the section where you decide What to ADD to your new Recorded Tracks. Take a look and you'll see that the default EQ is added to the tracks as they are recorded. This way you will know which tracks have been Enhanced and which ones have not. You can (A) Remove this and have nothing added to the tracks. (B) you can type just about any suffix or word you want and it will automatically be included as part of your track name. Use _Car if you want the tracks for your car, _Office for the office and so on. There's no limit to what you can do.

2. This is the box YOU CAN ADD to your ORIGINAL track. If you'd like your track names after you've equalized them, then don't put anything in box one and add something like _OLD to this box. That way the new tracks won't have any new suffix, but the tracks you've copied from will. It's up to you, you can have EITHER the NEW OR the OLD Tracks have a suffix or BOTH can have a suffix if you put something in each box.

3. Where do you want the tracks to go? OK this is really great. If you want your new equalized tracks to stay in the same folder as your originals, then leave this box blank. But if you want to send them to a new folder, like My Enhanced Tracks, then just Click the B button to Browse your computer for the folder you'd like to use. (See Below)

4. Are you ready? Great Click the OK button and your changes will become active.

Oh, Where Shall I Send My Tracks?

When You Click the B Button Above, you get this Window's Dialog Box. Just pick any folder on your computer 1, and then Click OK 2 and you're all set. All tracks that you Process/Record will be sent to the folder you have chosen here. This is a terrific ease of use feature. You will love having it just like I do.

What's So Special About Play?

Oh, you know me. You can't just have a simple Play Button. OK Click Play (1) and the Play Button becomes a Stop Button so you can stop the track Play/Preview at any time.

But that's not all. You'll see a progress bar move across the screen (2). You can grab the handle of the moving bar and drag it to any place within the track that you want to preview. That way you don't have to sit through the whole track if there's really just one or two sections you want to Preview. And of course you can just drag it back to hear a section again.
But there's still more. See below.

So, Which Track Do You Want To Play?

OK, if you've only loaded 1 track, no big deal. But what if you've loaded 2, 10 or 100 tracks. Which do you want to Preview/Play? Well no problem. If you've loaded more than one track, you'll get this Dialog box when you click play that let's you click which track you want to play. This really makes your life easy. So, Click (1) the track name and the Click (2) OK and your track will start playing. Plus, then you can use the Progress Bar Handle I mentioned above to play any part of the track. Then Click stop and you can Preview/Play another Track. Very Neat.

So Many Sliders What's A Person To Do?

Which Sliders to you use? Here's the simple answer. There's no right or wrong. Relax. Boost whatever sounds good to you. Is your room Hard? All hard floors and no drapes? Boost the lows. If you have lots of carpets and drapes, then boost the highs. Have you aged? Sorry! Then boost the 8K and 16K. And maybe even the 4K. The point is boost whatever sounds good. Just drag up the sliders till your sound is great. Then sit back and enjoy live vibrant even throbbing sound from now on. This is the heart of the DAK Recording Equalizer, but it's the simplest thing in the world to use. Enjoy. This is really great. And Don't forget to use the Lock Sliders Button so all your enhancements take effect on both channels and then use the Bypass Button to hear the massive improvement you've made. You'll be amazed at the difference.

Oh, the Super High End.

OK, this is a 10-band equalizer with +/- 12 db per Slider Frequency Band. Except for the 16,000Hz band. Here I've allowed you to add up to 18db (Still 12db minus) if you'd like. Now if your hearing has fallen off, or if you just like really clear, sharp highs, add a little more than the 12db to the 16,000Hz slider. Probably you'll never add all 18db and if you still can't hear anything different, then turn it back down and use the 2K, 4K and 8K sliders. But, you will find this extra 6db can really make a difference.

Master Volume, Balance And A Built-In Limiter Too.

OK, remember when I described an equalizer that it's really just a group of 20 volume controls? One for each of 10 frequency bands for each channel? Well, that's exactly true. When you turn up any or all of the bands, you tend to also increase overall volume because an increase in any frequency area adds to the total output.

So, I've included a highly sophisticated limiter so that as you increase the overall volume with the sliders your recording won't get too loud and cause distortion. We call that Over Recording Or Recording Too Hot. Either way, you'd get distortion and we don't want that. So, here's what to do.

Look at the meters. (1) If you see any red, then turn down the master volume control slider (2) till you don't see any red even on peaks. Of course the limiter will cover you if you miss some, but even so, it's better for you to set the master gain after you've adjusted all your sliders.

Also, you have a full +/- 20db of volume control, so you really can make up for a lot of too low or too high recordings with our Equalizer. And finally (3), you can control the balance easily and instantly if one track is louder than the other. Here I'm showing you that by sliding the balance over to the left, you effectively mute the right channel.

What Does A Sweep 20-20,000Hz Sine Wave Look Like?

Wow, you can really see the frequencies. Here I am play a 20-20,000Hz Sine Wave. You'll see the frequency bands of the real-time spectrum analyzer move from left to right as the frequency increases. You really can see the frequencies as they move across the analyzer.

Slider Power Shown.

So, here's how a slider works. It boosts all of the sound between the slider beneath it and above it. Often these are called octaves. But what's important to know is that for smooth great sounding response, when you slide up a slider, you get a bell shaped curve that extends (at much lower amplitude) to the adjacent sliders frequency areas.

So, here it is in numbers. 1. You can see that there is no effect at all on non-adjacent slider areas. 2. There is a 10% or so effect on the adjacent sliders and 3. most of the effect is on the area you have chosen. OK now you know how an equalizer works. Why not start using it and get some really great sounds enhanced 'out' of your music right now.

The Detailed Discussion On How, Why & What
An Equalizer Can Do For You.

Here's a blow up of a spectrum analyzer showing a 32hz sine wave.

Bass
(Approximately 20hz-140hz)
There is little musical material with fundamental frequencies below 60hz. What is normally perceived as low bass material is actually in the 60hz-140hz range. Only a few instruments actually reach this range such as the organ, contrabassoon and string bass.

The 60hz-90hz range is where we notice the greatest perceptible changes in "bass response." Try a test tone and see just how well you hear 20hz or even 32hz, compared with the same volume of 60hz or 90hz.
Mid-Bass
(Approximately 140hz-400hz)
Mid bass has lots of instruments included in its frequency range. Cello (my instrument), Bassoon, French Horn (Freedom Horn this year) and yes Male Voice are all here. This is where most 'bass' controls really muck up your music. Overemphasizing the mid-bass range gives the music a muddy, or "boomy" quality. If the mid-bass region is underemphasized, the music sounds hollow and thin.

Midrange
(Approximately 400hz-2.6khz)
Since our ears are most sensitive to midrange frequencies, midrange has the greatest effect on the overall sound of your stereo system. Actually there is controversy among engineers and audiophiles as to what the proper balance should be in this range. Some settings are best suited to particular types of music.

The "proper" settings are the ones most pleasing to you the listener. I won't list instruments here because virtually all instruments have fundamentals found here in the midrange with the exception of Contra Bassoons, Bass Tuba and a very few others.

Here's a blow up of a spectrum analyzer showing a 1,000hz sine wave.

Upper Midrange
(Approximately 2.6khz-5.2khz)

Except for the pipe organ and piano, not many instruments have fundamental frequencies this high. Well, I guess the violin does touch into the range. But, it's really amazing just how little fundamental frequency material actually starts above what we consider midrange.

Speaker designers often boost output in this range to affect the quality or "presence" of the music. Too much energy, on the other hand, sounds overbearingly harsh and strident. A good balance between this frequency range and the midrange frequencies gives the most pleasing sound.

High End
(Approximately 5.2khz-20khz - Two Regions)

The region from about 5.2khz up to about 12khz is normally perceived to be the high-frequency range. (The dreaded treble control.) Only the pipe organ actually contributes any fundamental frequencies in this spectrum (as well as a few others such as the flute), but this is where the harmonics really enhance your musical enjoyment. It's this range that effects the brilliance of music. Overemphasizing these frequencies gives an unpleasant, harsh and even piercing quality to your music.

Here's a blow up of a spectrum analyzer showing a 16,000hz sine wave.

The final region, the super high frequencies, from about 12khz-20khz, actually contains very little musical material despite all the editorial coverage it receives. However, many very soft 2nd and 3rd order harmonics do reach into this area.

Plus, most adults can hear only subtle differences when adjustments are made in the 14khz-20khz range. It's important to remember that adults, (mainly men) simply can't hear much above 15-16,000hz after the age of 50. So, this area primarily adds a little more dimension to your sound.

Now a word about Graphic Equalizers and what they can do with your frequencies.

FLASH - Instant 'How-To' Movie. Just click. No downloads. It plays right on your web page. See and hear all the action. Click To See The Recording EQ Movie.

The Truth About Graphic Equalizers

This is not an ad. It is an explanation of all graphic equalizers. It is not an attempt to promote equalizers sold by DAK over any others. It is meant solely to give you a thorough understanding of what an equalizer can do for your home, car and portable stereo systems.

What It Is. Please Read This Section.

An equalizer is really just a series of 10 volume controls. The difference between your main system volume and an equalizer's volume controls is that each equalizer volume control effects only ONE area of the whole frequency spectrum.

Bass and treble controls can't help because they indiscriminately boost everything from the midrange down or from the midrange up. Each actually effects about 30% of the entire frequency spectrum.

So, if you slide up the 40hz volume control on an equalizer, only sounds in the 30hz to 63hz like a string bass are really increased. Why is this important?

Well, the human ear can hear frequencies from about 20hz (20 cycles or vibrations per second) all the way to 20,000hz. Your stereo system, to a greater or lesser degree, produces these sounds.

But for a number of reasons, your stereo system and mine are unsuccessful. An equalizer simply helps your stereo system accurately reproduce the entire frequency spectrum of your music.

If your low bass is down 3 to 6db, you'll miss the excitement, warmth and fullness of a strong bass, a kettle drum or the lower registers of a cello. By increasing the signal with an equalizer, you're not magically creating something that doesn't exist, you're simply reviving inadequate recording or reproduction.

The same is true of the high end. The gentle sound of brushes on a cymbal, or the dramatic sound of glass shattering can be lost if the high end of your music is not reproduced at the same level as the midrange.

Why Aren't Our Stereo Systems Perfect?

The plain bare fact is that virtually all systems and sources are flawed. FM reception suffers from FM preemphasis which causes the FM station to cut back on the high frequencies they broadcast.

Try boosting the 8,000hz and 16,000hz to restore the impact and openness.
While the low frequencies aren't a problem with the FM broadcast, when you or they play records and tapes instead of CDs they are a problem.

Low bass sounds are massive. That's why woofers are the biggest speakers in your system. If recording engineers don't cut back the level of the bass on records, your stylus simply can't follow the groove. And, I don't even want to talk about cassettes.

But What About CD's?

With a CD, you can, for the most part, forget the limitations on your source material. Of course, they have the capability to accurately reproduce the entire 20hz to 20,000hz flawlessly.
But there are two things you should know. If they were made from analog (not digital masters), they may need help (see The Truth About CDs - What's DDD? Below).

And don't forget, everything about your system, your speakers, and your room is even more important than the source. Read on.

The Truth about CDs - What's DDD?

Pick up any CD in your library. On most new discs today you'll see the DDD symbol. OK, all CDs end with D. But there the similarity ends. Read on.

The first D stands for digital recording. This means that the recording engineer recorded all the instruments using sophisticated digital equipment. Not analog mastering. So, that leaves out all of our Golden Oldies, all the old classical favorites and well, Elvis and most Musicals as well.

The Second D represents digital mixing. Engineers mix the masters using analog or digital boards. This of course means no added hum or noise if you see the second D.

The third D is the reproduction media, and since it's a CD, it's always D. So, you can have CDs that are AAD, ADD, or DAD. An audio cassette or LP would usually be AAA. Oh, A always stands for analog.

More Problems
The Biggest Problem

OK, here we are. The important 'stuff.' The biggest problem with your stereo system is probably your room. Speakers placed in corners tend to boom at 125hz.

If they're in a bookcase, they tend to lack bass. Most speakers should be placed up to a foot from the wall to avoid standing waves.

But, which of us can have an ideal room built for our stereos? This is what I do for a living, and I have one speaker in front of a window and another in front of a wall. There's a measurable and 'hearable' difference when the drapes are opened or closed.

So with the aid of an equalizer, you can make your room ideal. You can compensate for a 125hz boom, or for a loss of high end because of drapes or couches.

Listen to the music, then switch in your equalizer. Or, with the Recording EQ, just make a few sample Tracks of each setting. It won't take you long to decide that equalized is a whole lot better than non-equalized. They're not even in the same league. The results will be awesome and repeatable. And that's a good thing.

Plus, it's the same in cars. Typically, they don't have a good high end. If you boost the signal at 8,000hz and 16,000hz in the house as much as in the car, you'll hear really raspy sound.

Studios have to produce their CDs for average home systems. And you know the story about the statistician who drowned in a lake with an average depth of 7". You can custom tailor CDs you make for the weaknesses of various systems.

FLASH - Instant 'How-To' Movie. Just click. No downloads. It plays right on your web page. See and hear all the action. Click To See The Recording EQ Movie.

An equalizer is the single most demonstrable stereo component you can buy.

Don't be intimidated. You don't have to keep your system flat, I don't. I'm a cellist and I'm used to a stronger bass.

THE OLD AGE PROBLEM

And here's some bad news for you. If you're like me, I'm going to be 58 !!!!! this year (horrors) your ears are no longer as sensitive above 14,000hz to 16,000hz.

So, even if your source is perfect, even if your system is perfect, even if the room is perfect, you may not be.

Because I work with high sounds (not loud ones) so much, I'm still able to hear 16,000hz to 17,000hz but I guarantee you by the time I turn 70, I'll be cranking up the 8,000hz and 16,000hz controls.

And this is important. It's not really that you can't hear the high frequencies. It's that you can't hear them as well. So, when you were 30 you didn't need to turn up the 16,000hz slider, now you do. By making the highs LOUDER, you bring back the sound you used to hear.

Please, I don't want to hear from the FDA, this isn't a medical device. But ask your doctor, he'll give you the bad news.

I guess someday I'll be reviewing equalizers for the geriatric crowd with a line like, "If you're 82 like I am, you probably haven't heard a cymbal crash in years…"

Anyway, if you'd like to experience the trumpets crashing out of your speakers, add a boost at 250hz and 500hz. If a female vocalist sounds raspy, cut the 1,000hz and 2,000hz sliders. Or if you want your walls to quiver with the pluck of a string bass or the blast of a bass tuba, boost the 40hz and 64hz controls.

When you switch in an equalizer or Click The Bypass Button, you'll hear an earthshaking, spine tingling improvement in your stereo system's sound.

Oh yes, in addition to restoring impact and drama to your music, you can easily adjust all the frequency bands to increase dramatic intensity, excitement and openness. Nobody ever said that flat was perfect, it's just a starting point. And, that's the way it is. I hope this Equalizer and Frequency Equalization Tutorial was helpful.

Enjoy. . . Drew

Tutorial Review Please. So, What do you think? Good? Bad? Was this Equalizer and Frequency Equalization Tutorial Helpful? Too detailed? Not Detailed enough? What would you do differently?
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